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Routes in Upper East Face
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Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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DH1? T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old and Undocumented, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | [Alec Sharp] |
| Page Views: | 2,119 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Collins on Jul 24, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob reopened 4/15/22
Details
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2022
Details
As of Feb. 2022, per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director for the Boulder Climbing Community, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The gully area on East Blob has several nice mixed climbs. This is the route immediately right of The Ticket. Look high on the face for the 3 bolt finish and a short, left-facing dihedral about halfway up towards the bolted section.
Start as for The Ticket. Clip the first bolt on that route and then head right up a low angle gully/dihedral. A little ways up this corner, there is a nice looking finger/hand crack that goes straight up to a ledge 15 feet higher. According to the guidebook, this crack is where the route goes, but I continued up the easy corner, following the path of least resistance to gain the left-facing dihedral at mid-height. This left-facing dihedral would be the trad crux of the route (10d). After pulling out of the dihedral, continue past 3 bolts (11a) to the anchor. At the last bolt, one can either climb a hand crack several feet left of the anchor, or a contrived path just right of the bolt, which is probably the intended line.
Be careful when lowering. A 60m rope just barely gets you back to the ground.
The route as described here is the "direct" version and seems to have largely superceded the original variation. The original variation climbed a slanting crack right of the bolted section, to a leftward traverse into the line of the direct variation (10d) just after its crux. This is also good climbing and feels a bit harder than the 10d lower crux.
Start as for The Ticket. Clip the first bolt on that route and then head right up a low angle gully/dihedral. A little ways up this corner, there is a nice looking finger/hand crack that goes straight up to a ledge 15 feet higher. According to the guidebook, this crack is where the route goes, but I continued up the easy corner, following the path of least resistance to gain the left-facing dihedral at mid-height. This left-facing dihedral would be the trad crux of the route (10d). After pulling out of the dihedral, continue past 3 bolts (11a) to the anchor. At the last bolt, one can either climb a hand crack several feet left of the anchor, or a contrived path just right of the bolt, which is probably the intended line.
Be careful when lowering. A 60m rope just barely gets you back to the ground.
The route as described here is the "direct" version and seems to have largely superceded the original variation. The original variation climbed a slanting crack right of the bolted section, to a leftward traverse into the line of the direct variation (10d) just after its crux. This is also good climbing and feels a bit harder than the 10d lower crux.
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