Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alec Sharp & Casey Newman
Page Views: 2,975 total · 15/month
Shared By: jonah on Aug 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

On the upper part of East Blob, immediately to the left of The Enlightenment. The route starts off a pedestal. The crux is the first 15 feet, and involves a really painful and hard to use thumbs down left hand fingerlock, followed by a big pull to a great lock. From here, you can throw in a great piece, and work a short thin hands/fingers section to a jug on the face. Maybe 15-20 feet of sinker hand jams from here leads to a huge horn and the (kinda balancey and spooky) finish. A great route with hard moves and good pro. It's a good thing most 12cs aren't this hard, though; this beast will never be downrated.

Protection

Small stoppers and #0-1 Metolius sew up the crux, then a 0.5 or 0.75 for the thin hands section. Bring a #1 and #2 Camalot for the hands finish, and a sling for the horn at the top. Also, I found taping your cuticles allows you to put in more attempts.

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