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Routes in Upper East Face

Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DH1? T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alec Sharp & Casey Newman
Page Views: 2,493 total, 14/month
Shared By: jonah on Aug 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

On the upper part of East Blob, immediately to the left of The Enlightenment. The route starts off a pedestal. The crux is the first 15 feet, and involves a really painful and hard to use thumbs down left hand fingerlock, followed by a big pull to a great lock. From here, you can throw in a great piece, and work a short thin hands/fingers section to a jug on the face. Maybe 15-20 feet of sinker hand jams from here leads to a huge horn and the (kinda balancey and spooky) finish. A great route with hard moves and good pro. It's a good thing most 12cs aren't this hard, though; this beast will never be downrated.

Protection

Small stoppers and #0-1 Metolius sew up the crux, then a 0.5 or 0.75 for the thin hands section. Bring a #1 and #2 Camalot for the hands finish, and a sling for the horn at the top. Also, I found taping your cuticles allows you to put in more attempts.
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12a
5.12a seems about right on given other routes of the same grade in the canyon feel... a little easier. I thought it was a rather challenging boulder problem to some sustained, albeit short, difficulties above. Good gear abounds. This is a great pitch and another Alec Sharp masterpiece. Oct 16, 2017
Super good crack, although I don't know about it being a very sandbagged grade. I think it feels about 12a, but who cares about the grade all that matters in reality is that it is very enloyable? Except for maybe the first lock, it doesn't treat the fingers too well. Sep 18, 2006
Ron Olsen, Dale Haas, and I removed all the tat at the anchor on top of this climb. I drilled a new 3/8" Rawl SS bolt and added chains and links to work with the existing pin and bolt swaged cable anchor.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Oct 25, 2005