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Routes in Upper East Face

Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DH1? T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (35)
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mark Rolofson, 2003
Page Views: 44,940 total, 271/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on May 7, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a pleasant, multi-pitch sport climb with several very short crux sections and moderate slab climbing in between. Good belay stances and good anchors for belaying and rappelling make this an excellent first multi-pitch climb. The FA party rated this 10b, but for someone of my height (6'2", -1 ape factor), it's 5.9. There are a couple of spots where reach might make a difference.

Approach: This route is on the left edge of the Upper East Face of East Blob Rock. See the beta photo for Blob Rock. East Blob is the formation on the right of the photo with the pointed top. The route starts a short ways up the gully that runs up and right along the base of East Blob. Walk up the trail to the base of the gully that separates Blob Rock from East Blob. Walk down and right along the base of Blob Slab and up to the base of the Upper East Face of East Blob. The route starts left of a dead tree with no branches, just left of where the wall starts to overhang right off the ground. The tree is just left of a large boulder near the wall. The climb angles left and then back right below a prominent large orange buttress at the top of the cliff.

The route: Bolt counts and pitch lengths are approximate. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined. Pitches 3 and 4 might be combined, but there may be rope drag.

P1: Starting at a thin crack that angles slightly right, climb a steep face and then move left to an easy slab and the belay. 5.9, 7 bolts, 80'.

P2: Angle left on easy ground to a short steep wall which is climbed at 5.9 if you can reach the hold. The FA party calls this 10b, and it may be that hard if you are short. 5 bolts. 60'.

P3: There are two variations to pitch 3. Since I was self-belaying, I climbed the left variation on the lead and the right variation when I cleaned the pitch. The left variation is better and goes over a bulge at 5.9 to a slab. The right variation climbs a dirty right facing corner and is harder. The start, which looks hard, is easy. The top, which looks easy, is hard and involves flared hand jams. Where the variations join, make an interesting 5.9 move into a right facing right leaning corner and up to a ledge. 9 bolts, 90'.

P4: Angle right on a fun 5.8 slab and up easier rock to the top anchors. 8 bolts, 70'.

Protection

Approximately 12 quickdraws, or 18 if you will link pitches. No trad gear is needed, although there are often good gear placements near the bolts. The bolts are closely spaced even on easy ground.

Descent

There are multiple ways to rap along this part of the cliff. With a 70m rope you can combine the pitch 2 and 3 rappels or the pitch 1 and 2 rappels. The rap to the right might be more efficient and can be done in two raps with a 60m. You can also walk off to the right and down the gully to the east.
Great climb, for sure sequences of 5.10 (a-b) in pitch 2 and 3; however, the rest of the route is fairly cruiser. Best rappel would be using a 70m and rapping to rappeler's right from pitch 4 anchor. You will come onto a diagonal ledge that runs down to the right where the second sets of rings are, about 80 feet. The 2nd rap gets you to the ground comfortably. Nov 6, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
I agree with J. Albers's comment that the bolting on this route reflects the ledgy nature of the rock. Both the P2 and the P3 cruxes are right above a ledge. So if you blow the move, you're very likely to hit the ledge. So I think the route is bolted well (not overly bolted), especially for people leading at the grade. Oct 16, 2017
Erin Gunn  
 
All of the pitches were pretty fun and overly protected. The first three of which had some short sequences that push the grade to 5.9 where the majority of the pitches could probably be climbed hands free if you felt so inclined.

To Second Travis Provin, rapping from the top w/ 60m ropes is comfortable. Just keep right, and look for an anchor on a bomber ledge. Both ends of the rope will be about 15ft past the anchors. The second rap is super fun and the rope will just be touching the ground.

If you end up finding the other 70m rappel because you didn't go far enough right, just swing to the left on your second rappel and there is another anchor that you can tie in to finish the rap in 3. Sep 4, 2017
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
My second time up this fun route today. Combined the first two pitches then did the 3rd and 4th as described. (Might be a good idea not to combine the last two pitches if you think your follower might have troubles on the cruxes of P3--nice to have a visual and be able to communicate.) This time, on P3, we took the right variation (crack). It looked like bomber hands from the belay below, but it was anything but in the short crux section...flared and fingery. I thought it was harder than the left variation--especially so if you are not a crack climber. This time, we rapped down rather than doing the walk/scramble. No sweat in two rappels with our 70m rope. From bolts at the top of the 4th pitch, we rapped down and slightly to climber's right and found the next bolt station high on the wall behind the big ledge. Second rap to the ground was overhanging for the last bit. It dropped us off maybe 50m above our packs. Oh, a note on that weird move into the dihedral just above the two 3rd pitch variations: the first time up this it took me a good 10-15 minutes to figure it out. This time, I got it almost immediately. I think it is near 5.9+ to 5.10 the first time you try it, then 5.7 once you unlock the really cool sequence. Jul 31, 2017
Awesome multi-pitch! Just a note for all who are planning on climbing this in the near future -- I just climbed this route last week, and the left anchor bolt at the belay for the 4th pitch (top of the 3rd pitch) was very loose. The nut holding the bolt into the wall was loose and unscrewing itself, and I actually tightened it with my fingers! So if anyone has a wrench to carry up with them (not sure the size), it could use tightening. Jul 27, 2017
Travis Provin
Boulder CO
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
Awesome route! Very fun and secure climbing. P3 is the crux, not difficult just thought provoking.

You can easily rap from the top with a 60m in two raps. Angle right and you'll end up at an anchor. It's one more rap (with a fun hanging rappel) to the ground. Knot your ropes regardless. Nov 28, 2016
Want a free headlamp and/or need karma points!?

Climbed TYATR November 12 (first of all, can we talk about that for a second? 70 and sunny on Nov. 12!). Was fiddling with the headlamp girthed to my harness on the descent and dropped it. Orange and gray Petzl Tikka2. It was dark, and we were kind of screwing up the descent, I accidentally undid the hitch down from the Blob Slab a little ways toward the road. It was trail, but not the one we came up on past the main face, or maybe it was just a water runoff and I'm dumb. Go get her and give her back to me, 'cuz you're great!

As for the climb itself? Sorry to be a hater, but I thought it was a little overrated. Kind of like 3 pitches of one move wonders stacked on top of each other. The last pitch is beautiful in its way, but the line isn't super proud, exposed, or consistent. However, much like burrito chains, I'm glad that it exists. Nov 13, 2016
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.9
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.9
Awesome route, over protected, good belay stances, and easy rappels. Oct 30, 2016
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
Climbed this wonderful route today in raging winds (probably gusts to 40+mph). Due to the winds, rather than rappel, we chose to walk off the back and down the gully to our packs at the base of the climb (still in our trad shoes as well). This probably took less time than doing the two rappels into the gully. Something to consider even when it isn't so windy. Or...maybe I'm just an old guy who likes to avoid rappelling at every opportunity. Oct 17, 2016
I agree with Merlin's assessment, though I found some of the moves towards the end of Pitch 3 to be quite weird, though I might have missed something. Pulling over the weird bulge thing at the end of Pitch 3 was the headiest move on the whole climb. Not super difficult (I think the 9+ rating is pretty apt) but definitely headier than the rest of the climb.

To rappel, I had a single 70 meter, and went straight down from the last anchor. If you angle slightly right as you rap, you'll end up at a two bolt anchor with rap rings. I had about 15~20 feet of rope left at that anchor. From there, it's a free hanging rap to the ground. I had about 30 feet of rope on the ground. Apr 25, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The route is closed for Eagles now, until Aug. 1 or if they nest elsewhere. Signage is clear and the area is monitored. Don't be a jerk and get the closure enlarged by climbing it now. Feb 15, 2016
I replaced the nut and missing hanger on the wedge bolt on P5. Thanks to the BCC for providing the hardware, please consider donating to them if you don't already as 100% of every dollar you donate goes directly to things like this. Jan 31, 2016
Dan Sneider
Denver, CO
 
Dan Sneider   Denver, CO
 
Missing hanger through the crux! WTF? Was wishing I brought a cam along.... Cool route nonetheless. That flared handjam had me thinking for a few minutes. Sep 3, 2015
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
If you do the right variation on the third pitch, be aware that there is a hanger missing on the crux bolt. Aug 29, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
First two pitches feel about 5.8. Fun climbing but not much of a warm-up. Jul 29, 2015
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10a
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10a
Great route for someone looking to get on their first multi-pitch climb. A plethora of bolts scatter the route. Either bring a good number of quickdraws or be comfortable skipping bolts on easier ground if linking any of the pitches. 5.9 cruxes with 5.7/8 climbing in between. Mar 19, 2015
As per the USFS press release, this route and the whole Blob Rock/East Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress and Security Risk areas are open to climbing as of 3/13/2015. Read on to learn more about where the eagles nest in Boulder Canyon, how the annual eagle closures work, and why they are needed.

The pair of golden eagles in this territory have alternate nest sites on Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Eagle Rock. The reason for the early season closures of these cliffs is to allow the eagles to select a nest site, rebuild the nest, and lay and incubate their eggs without human interference, and it is of particular importance on this popular route, when closures are in effect, because one of the alternative eagle nests is on pitch 4 of Young and Rackless.

As part of a small team of volunteer climber-biologists, we install trail cameras on the cliffs before the nesting season and make observations to determine when and where the eagles choose to nest. Once nesting is confirmed by observations of incubation behavior and/or an egg, the USFS opens the other areas. Ongoing observations are used to keep track of the number of eagles fledged and sources of mortality. Once fledging is confirmed, the nest cliff is opened again to climbing. This is a collaborative effort built on trust and shared interest between the climbing community, biologists, and USFS, so please get the word out. (Knuckleheads who violate the closures to climb anyway, selfishly violate that trust, put the eagles at risk of nest failure, and face a hefty fine.)

Climbers played essential roles in the research and recovery of peregrine falcons and Sierra bighorn sheep, and brought the California condor back from the brink of extinction. It is our time to do our part again, and respect the closures when they are in effect, as golden eagles face an uncertain future because of threats from wind turbines, lead contamination, electrocutions, and habitat loss.

Rob Roy Ramey II, Ph.D.
climber-biologist

Mar 16, 2015
Todd Miller   MT
I think it's worth bringing a 70m for this route because it makes the rappels smooth and easy. Notes on the rappels:

Option 1: this is the best option and is 2 rappels with a single 70m rope.

From the top of the route (P4), rappel straight down. You will not be able to see the next set of anchors as you begin the rappel. Rap down eventually going over a bulge where you'll see a few bolts then another set of rap anchors (Fixe rings). Consider putting knots in the ends of your rope even if you're not normally in the habit of doing so, because by the time you're standing on the small ledge to clip the anchor, you will only have a few feet of rope left (again, this is with a single 70m rope - a single 60m will not make it).

For the next rappel, you will make it to the ground with room to spare.

Option 2: alternative option that may work with a single 60m rope (I've only done it with a 70m rope but had rope to spare):

From the top of the route (P4), rappel down and trend slightly right. You will see a set of anchors on a sloping ledge. Head to them.

From the sloping ledge, rap down trending slightly right. You will see another chain/pin/bolt anchor (which you don't use) on your way down before dropping over the leaning dihedrals/overhangs.

Note that neither of these options involve using any of the anchors on the route itself. Rapping the route is impractical given the traversing nature of the route and the simplicity of the above options and may be inconsiderate given the popularity of this route. Jan 27, 2015
Kevin Pula
Denver
5.8
Kevin Pula   Denver
5.8
What is the bolted line above the second pitch on The Young and the Rackless? It is a long pitch, 12+ bolts, that goes left from just above the 2nd anchors. Starts about 40 feet left, not really walkable from the 2nd anchors, have to rap in from the 3rd anchors. Heads up some bulges then straight up the steep headwall that is perfectly flat about 20 yards west (uphill) of TYATR. Seemed like 12+ to me, couldn't find it on MP at all. Didn't get to the top, two bolts short but seemed like the nothing was above it, definitely nothing was bolted below it; we had to rap to a ledge and walk climber's left to the first anchors of TYATR. Anyone know? Nov 17, 2013
Crux on pitch 2 did feel more like a 10a than a 9. I did it laying back to the left, which risks a bit of a swing if you fall on lead.

Overall a great climb. Dec 5, 2012
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
  5.10a
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
  5.10a
I felt the right variation on the third pitch was significantly harder than the left variation which felt much more like the 5.9/10a climbing of this route.

Also, the walkoff isn't as intuitive as you might think. We went straight back from the belay and then scrambled up to the top of the face. You then are able to see the burned out path through the field and then into the gully.

Bring approach shoes if you want to walk off. We lapped it twice and found it significantly easier to just rap the pitches.

Peter Nov 4, 2012
Addison
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Addison   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The pitch comes at you twice on P3. First crux I'd say goes 5.9+. Second could be a soft 10a. Sep 20, 2012
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
I've done this twice now, going up is nothing but fun. The P3 crack option to the right is great (harder of course)!

The rap though has been the crux both times though. I really need to discover the two rap option. If you rap the route itself, you have to go down diagonally - probably not that safe for those who have little experience rappelling. Aug 16, 2012
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Climbed this in a party of three and had a blast. Well bolted and fun all the way up. Crux is near the top of P3, in my opinion. Was able to make it to the ground in only one rap thanks to the two 60m's we brought up with us. Aug 9, 2012
Jake Carroll
The Springs
  5.9+
Jake Carroll   The Springs
  5.9+
I thought this one was super fun. Crux pitch for me was definitely the awkward slot move at the top of P3. We did the two rappels to the climber's right. Definitely a good move as there were 2 parties behind us. If I were to do it again, I would combine pitches 1 and 2. May 10, 2012
PHotY
  5.9+
PHotY  
  5.9+
Wow! First multi-pitch was a blast. Nothing to complain about on this route. It was overly safe with bolts and great rock. The route is straightforward and a great climb. Somewhere between a 5.9 and a 5.10a. Tons of fun. Rappel from top to 3rd pitch (basically left traverse following original route). Rappel from 3rd pitch straight down to two chain anchors (not used during route). Rappel to ground.

Be careful, we had a 60m rope and made the second rappel (from 3rd pitch to anchor's directly below) with no more than 2m's of rope to spare. Oct 10, 2011
Paul-B
  5.8+
Paul-B  
  5.8+
Climbed this route today...fun route, not sure about 5.9, maybe the 3rd pitch was 5.9, the rest was more 5.8ish.

On a separate note, it appears that someone took my rope bag from the base of the climb while I was out (I am hoping by mistake?). If you have it, please message me. It's possible I missed it, it was getting quite dark by the time we got back. If you find a dark green Metolious bag, let me know! Sep 19, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.8
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.8
Quite a fun route that would make a great intro to multi-pitch climbing for those looking to get into it. I thought the climbing was probably no harder than 5.8 and not very sustained at that. Fun for what it is...a relaxing, moderate, sport outing.

Also, a note about the bolts. It is my opinion that many of the closely spaced bolts reflect the ledgy nature of this route. My guess is that the route developers spaced some of the bolts closely to prevent busted ankles in the event of a fall. I know that I appreciate route equippers who do this on 5.12, so I don't see why 5.9 should be any different. Furthermore, I find it a little funny that folks would harp on the bolting job of Mr. Kodas. I actually think it reflects highly on him for his ability to put up routes of widely varying styles (bold versus well bolted). Both types of routes are equally valid IMHO. For those of you who are upset about over bolting, I would be happy to point you in the direction of any number of Mr. Kodas' routes in the Southern Sierra that will surely require a change of pants afterwards. Dec 20, 2010
CJ Coccia
Denver, CO
  5.9+
CJ Coccia   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Just climbed today. I'd agree with many others in that pitches 1-3 involve pretty simple climbing with a hard move thrown in every once in a while. The crux on pitch 2 was a bit difficult and out of reach for me, and there is a real fun heel hook move on pitch 3. Slab climb on pitch 4 is fun. Overall, I'd say it is fun, gets you up there, yet it doesn't feel too exposed. The approach is a pain in the a**. Jul 22, 2010
Evan Deis  
 
This uninteresting, over-bolted route is severely overrated: three stars? Exposure is very limited and and does not make a for a good introduction to multi-pitch climbing. Jun 6, 2010
Pinklebear
  5.9
Pinklebear  
  5.9
Fun climbing, great views, killer rock -- good stuff. Thanks, Vaino and Mark! Apr 10, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
One rope is all you need for the raps. Nov 10, 2009
Couloirman Schmiddy
Providence, RI
  5.9+
Couloirman Schmiddy   Providence, RI
  5.9+
Funny how climbing a route more than once changes your perspective. I climbed this route 3 times in a 2 week period to introduce a few new climbers to a multi-pitch outing. The first time I thought it was maybe a 5.9 for most of the route, but the crux on the third pitch felt to me around 5.10+. I was GRIPPED when pulling up to the top of the 3rd pitch belay ledge on lead. Climbed it again a few days later and was digging the MP.com rating over the sport and adventure climbing guidebook, because a 5.10b it is not. Third time I went back I was so comfortable with it that I soloed it, because I know for a fact I wont ever be able to mark a climb rated 5.10b in a guidebook as a free solo ever again.

Super fun route, absolutely perfect bolt spacing when you want it, you get to do all the hard moves practically on top rope(some would call it overbolted, I just call it safely bolted, but we won't get into that here. So, to each their own). A great intro to multi pitch climbing, would do it again any day. Sep 7, 2009
Tombo
Boulder
  5.9+
Tombo   Boulder
  5.9+
Fun outing for a multi pitch sport climb. I'm a tad over 5'6" an felt the reach on pitch two warranted a 9+. I'd rate climb as 5.8 for pitch 1, 9+ pitch 2, 5.9 for pitch 3 ( I thought the right hand crack variation was much better then the left variation) and 5.7 for pitch 4. Easy to run pitch 1 & 2 together. Sep 27, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.9
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.9
A fun cruiser route, worth doing at least once... I especially enjoyed the bolted crack on the variation to P3. There is no need to bring any gear, since there are bolts right next to the crack. Maybe that variation should be called "The Old and the Rackless" or "Clip'em or Skip'em". Jan 28, 2008
Merlin
Grand Junction
 
Merlin   Grand Junction
 
I agree that this is not a very sustained climb. P1 (I lead) seemed to start with a 5.9ish face climb which quickly relented to 5.7 then almost 5.2-5.4.

P2 (friend lead) started around 5.7 then went quickly to 5.10a/b for all of 10 feet. I watched my 6'1" friend pull right up the hard part and head up to the anchors. Being relatively short, this move was not easy and definitely harder than 5.9. If you can reach the jug on the right, it might be 5.8/5.9. After passing it, the climbing eased up again.

p3 (I lead) I went left and found the climbing to be 5.7-5.8 then dropping to 5.0 and a ledge walk. From here, there was an odd move into a slot which felt 5.9 then quickly relented to 5.7.

p4 (friend lead) was the best of the 4 pitches in my opinion. It was the most sustained at about 5.8 and required a bit of delicacy.

All in all, I think this route would be pretty easy for a beginning 5.9 sport leader, assuming you can reach the move on the 2nd pitch. I couldn't so it would sketch me, but if I was 5'10" or above, I think this climb is not to sustained and felt more like a scramble with bouldering moves.

All in all, though it was quite fun and had great views. It provided enough thrills without being too sustained. Aug 24, 2006
Friso Schlottau  
  5.8
VERY friendly beginner climb... probably a bit too friendly.
I think this route is 5.8... 98% of the climb is mellow, enjoyable (massively overbolted) climbing, with 2.5 moves of 5.8, maybe 5.8+ on it. I just hope this doesn't become the new standard of bolting - when a long draw can be clipped between two bolts you know something is off a little...

Great eye spying that line, though.

My rating comes about by comparing this line with
Mosquito Burrito - 5.8
Topless Etiquette - 5.8
Bastille Crack - 5.7

All these climbs seem harder to me than TYATR. Aug 9, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
We did this today and easily got off with two rappels with a 60m rope. (See Ron's comment above). Simply rap a bit to your right to a spacious ledge with two bolts, then rap to the ground. The last 40 ft or so is an free rappel which makes for kind of an adventursome feel to the end of the climb. A knot in the end of the rope might be a good idea because I had maybe 4 ft of rope left when I touched the base. In the latest guide book this is still rated 5.10b for what it is worth. I personally think a newer 5.9 lead climber would find this to be pretty challenging outing. Jun 10, 2006
Larry Moffett
  5.9+
Larry Moffett  
  5.9+
Had been waiting to do this route for some time. It was well worth it. My partner John and I both showed up super early and were well onour way up..when the "others" arrived. We both thought the 3 pitch was crux. Left side pitch three was trickier than 9. Also getting into upper corner pitch three was a challenge. Sep 20, 2005
Legs Magillicutty
Durango
  5.9
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
  5.9
Not sure what I was looking at but I don't think there is anything worth climbing directly above the route. I went back early this week and saw more rock but it looks very short and nothing but a mere scramble. Sep 2, 2005
Legs Magillicutty
Durango
  5.9
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
  5.9
Did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. It was nice getting that high above the canyon. I'm curious what the route is (higher up) that is visible from the top of the last pitch. There is a crack up there with lots of chalk, no bolts that I could see. Can you link this with the last pitch and rap from the top? The crux on P3 stumped me for a second but once I figured out the sequence, it was solid. We had a 70 m rope and rapped from the top of p4 to the bottom in 2 raps. In doing this, we were not rappelling directly down onto the Young and the Rackless, which is good since 2 parties were on their way up and the other climbs were vacant. Aug 29, 2005
We linked Pitches 1 and 2 together and Pitches 3 and 4 together with a 60 meter rope. Rope drag wasn't bad, though we selectively skipped bolts. Pitches 1 and 2 seemed much easier, we only used six clips total for both pitches. Pitches 3 and 4 seemed to have a few more difficult moves, so we only skipped a couple of bolts yet still had minimal rope drag. We did three raps down the route, the last leaving us with about ten feet of downclimbing... if you descend this way, DO NOT RAP OFF THE END OF YOUR ROPE. Oct 21, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
We were fortunate to see a huge golden eagle soaring above the cliff shortly after we topped out.

The best descent from the top is two rappels straight down the rock with a 60m rope. The first rappel is 80'; angle to the rappeller's right to get to the next bolted rap station. The second rappel is 95'. This leaves you about 100' uphill from the start of the route. Be careful how you pull the rope on the second rappel to avoid flakes and cracks that could snag the rope.

Above the intermediate rap station is a steep headwall with two bolts. Thirty feet higher is a third bolt. This appears to be a mixed pitch requiring trad gear to supplement the bolts. Does anyone know the name of this route or how hard it is? I didn't see any bolts leading up to the intermediate rap station. Oct 4, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
A route with a lot of easy territory (5.4) some moderate territory (5.7) and maybe three 5.9 moves. Best done as a single ~75 meter pitch and ~20 slings, or by linking the first 3 pitches (~ 60M) and then doing the last pitch later. We had a 70M rope and simuled only a short amount to go all at once. You skip a lot of clips (we made 19 in all) to keep the line straight and avoid drag, we had almost none but the weight of the rope.

It's hard not to give a 250' single pitch of solid rock at least 2 *'s. If it had been more sustained at any given grade (5.6 or 5.10, whatever) or more consistent in character, it would be a 3-star route, but it is more mileage than it is interesting. Sep 20, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.9
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.9
I forgot to add a correction to the post. The tree at the base is dead, but it has branches. The branchless one is 200 feet farthur uphill, and would give you 50 feet of climbing. Sep 2, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.9
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.9
Fun route. This can be done quickly by linking the pitches. 2 awkward moves of 9. We rapped straight down with a 60m and got off in two raps by using other anchors. Aug 29, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9-
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9-
Fun. Probably most efficient to link P1/2 including 12-13 clips & P3/4 including 17 clips. Believe P4 has about 7 bolts & 2 pins. These old pins suggests it may not be a 2003 FA and someone, like Layton?, may have been here.... If you rap with 2 ropes, you can get to another modern 2 bolt rap station about 140 ft below the top anchor. 5.9 for the reach move on P2. P3's move is weird but felt easier. Aug 25, 2004
shad O'Neel
  5.8+
shad O'Neel  
  5.8+
For a boulder canyon bolted moderate, this one is good. There are many, many bolts. I even skipped a couple to link pitches, and didnt get scared. At every hard move, you have a bolt (or two) within reach. Much of the route could be climbed without bolts, if you brought gear, thus the morality of the route will create mixed feelings for traditional climbers.

Considering the 5.9 rating, If 'Mission to Mars' (solaris) and the bihedral arete (bihedral have been downrated from 5.10 to 5.9 standings, then I would think this route should be called a 5.8+ since it is a grade easier (in my opinion) than either of those routes. There are always bomber holds, and I found the trickiest part to be entering the corner on p3, even though the other cruxes were wet. Perhaps its best to simply call the route 5.fun, since thats what it is.

An excellent climber for moderate leaders. Aug 24, 2004
Steve Line
  5.9
Steve Line  
  5.9
BTW we carried a second 60m rope with us up this climb and were able to rap all the way down in one rap. This only works if you throw the rope down to the left of the route while at the top and looking down.

Have fun! It's a great fun route!

Steve Jul 16, 2004
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I really liked that crux move at the end of pitch 3. At first it seemed like you had to do something hard. But in the end, it actually goes without too much trouble. The trick was to push instead of pull. Jul 12, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.9
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Saturday July 3rd, we arrive at the base of this route at 7:30 AM to find a party ahead of us! Damn, this route isn't even in a guidebook and already it is mobbed! It must have been Jake and Annette, who were nearly up pitch 2 and moving quickly. Despite the early morning traffic, we didn't see anyone on this route the rest of the day ...

This route is fun and very well bolted. It is hard to rate because the cruxes are short bulges that go quickly once you figure them out. But I could see reach being an issue. The move that took me the longest to figure out was the bulge after the two variations join on pitch 3. This route felt significantly easier than the similar vintage Bihedral Arete. Jul 12, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Did the climb again today. The right-hand variation on the third pitch felt about 5.9 on dry rock. The flared hand jams at the top of the initial corner were pretty solid for me, but can be quite difficult for people with small hands.

The left-hand variation on the third pitch also felt about 5.9 on dry rock. Solid hands and one high-step layback move, and it's over. The moves into the corner near the end of the third pitch are tricky to figure out, but a hoot once you unlock the secret.

This is a great climb for the budding 5.9 leader: four pitches that come in at 5.9, 5.9, 5.9, and 5.8 with plenty of bolts. Do both variatons on the third pitch and you have five good pitches of climbing.

This will become the classic moderate multi-pitch sport route in Boulder Canyon. Jul 4, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
The third pitch (left variation) felt harder than the second pitch. Jul 3, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A fun multi-pitch well-bolted sport route. The first pitch starts with several 5.9 moves up a steep headwall then eases up to the belay. Be sure to head up left to the belay; there are other anchors up to the right, but they are on another route.

The second pitch headwall felt like 5.9 to me and my partner; the good holds weren't hard to reach. We did the left variation on the third pitch. The crux bulge felt harder than 5.9. My partner did it with a heel hook, and I did it as a layback from the left; both moves felt like 10a, but the handholds were wet and maybe it would be easier if the rock were dry. The move entering the slanting corner up higher was pure fun!

The fourth pitch is a nice 5.8 slab with 8 bolts. We rapped down and I tried the right variation on the third pitch, but was turned back by wet rock at the flared hand jams. This seemed like it would go at 5.9+ to 10a if the rock were dry.

This is a fine route that will become very popular. Jun 30, 2004