Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (35)
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mark Rolofson, 2003
Page Views: 54,804 total · 296/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on May 7, 2004 with improvements by Evan Koeber
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Note: this route is subject to the YEARLY closure for raptor nesting in Boulder Canyon. 

This is a pleasant, multi-pitch sport climb with several very short crux sections and moderate slab climbing in between. Good belay stances and good anchors for belaying and rappelling make this an excellent first multi-pitch climb. The FA party rated this 10b, but for someone of my height (6'2", -1 ape factor), it's 5.9. There are a couple of spots where reach might make a difference.

Approach: This route is on the left edge of the Upper East Face of East Blob Rock. See the beta photo for Blob Rock. East Blob is the formation on the right of the photo with the pointed top. The route starts a short ways up the gully that runs up and right along the base of East Blob. Walk up the trail to the base of the gully that separates Blob Rock from East Blob. Walk down and right along the base of Blob Slab and up to the base of the Upper East Face of East Blob. The route starts left of a dead tree with no branches, just left of where the wall starts to overhang right off the ground. The tree is just left of a large boulder near the wall. The climb angles left and then back right below a prominent large orange buttress at the top of the cliff.

The route: Bolt counts and pitch lengths are approximate. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined. Pitches 3 and 4 might be combined, but there may be rope drag.

P1: Starting at a thin crack that angles slightly right, climb a steep face and then move left to an easy slab and the belay. 5.9, 7 bolts, 80'.

P2: Angle left on easy ground to a short steep wall which is climbed at 5.9 if you can reach the hold. The FA party calls this 10b, and it may be that hard if you are short. 5 bolts. 60'.

P3: There are two variations to pitch 3. Since I was self-belaying, I climbed the left variation on the lead and the right variation when I cleaned the pitch. The left variation is better and goes over a bulge at 5.9 to a slab. The right variation climbs a dirty right facing corner and is harder. The start, which looks hard, is easy. The top, which looks easy, is hard and involves flared hand jams. Where the variations join, make an interesting 5.9 move into a right facing right leaning corner and up to a ledge. 9 bolts, 90'.

P4: Angle right on a fun 5.8 slab and up easier rock to the top anchors. 8 bolts, 70'.

Protection

Approximately 12 quickdraws, or 18 if you will link pitches. No trad gear is needed, although there are often good gear placements near the bolts. The bolts are closely spaced even on easy ground.

Descent

There are multiple ways to rap along this part of the cliff. With a 70m rope you can combine the pitch 2 and 3 rappels or the pitch 1 and 2 rappels. The rap to the right might be more efficient and can be done in two raps with a 60m. You can also walk off to the right and down the gully to the east.

Photos