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Routes in Upper East Face

Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DH1? T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 144 total, 6/month
Shared By: claytown on Nov 22, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This mixed route is pretty fun climbing, but it's squeezed in there and only has a 1 ring bolt anchor.

It is immediately left of The Ticket. Start up the easy dihedral at the base of The Ticket angling left (same as Saturday Treat), placing a few pieces, then cut right and climb the 3 bolt vertical wall.

At the ledge, step right and clip the pin (or a bolt on The Ticket with a sling). Then work your way up left on the ramp. The route is really close to The Ticket here, and I was a little confused, so I clipped two bolts on The Ticket, but I think you're supposed to just climb left up the easy ramp and place a piece along the way. Then step right to clip a bolt, and climb through the bulge with a crack in the middle and another on the right side (cool moves) to another ledge.

Climb up the face past another bolt to the single ring bolt anchor. I climbed straight up past the anchor where you can place a #2 and/or #3 with a sling as a directional, and traverse straight right and down to the anchors on The Ticket, or left and down to some other anchors. I went to The Ticket.

Location

It is immediately left of The Ticket. Start in the same spot (also the same as Saturday Treat). This shares a few moves with The Ticket mid-way up.

Protection

This is a mixed gear & bolt line. The guidebook says to protect with 6 bolts and gear to 3 inches. Take a few extra draws and a long sling or two. A single set of cams green Alien to #3 was sufficient.

The anchor is 1 ring bolt. I climbed above, placed a #3 on a sling, and traversed right to The Ticket. It would be better with a second bolt at the anchor.

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