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Routes in Upper East Face

Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DH1? T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Alec Sharp, 1979
Page Views: 877 total, 5/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 29, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is on the East Blob, and starts just a couple feet left of the Ticket. This is a wandering route up so-so rock, and I suspect it sees few ascents. Not too surprising...there are better routes a-plenty in the area.

Climb the hand crack system sandwiched between the Ticket and Schizofrantic. Straight forward climbing leads up and left to an awkward mantle crux at the base of the Schizofrantic dihedral. Keep moving left and up, following the main line of weakness. Some interpretation here as to where exactly the original line goes; when in doubt, choose the easiest line. I guess I can't say for sure that I even went the right way, though my partner who had done the route before said I was on route.

Personally, I thought the most redeeming quality of this route is that it can place you within fairly easy reach of the Ticket's chain anchors to set up a TR, or even just a convenient alternative to get off the rock (otherwise, its a scrungy descent off to the east, then down the gully). Its not a bomb, but its not a destination route either.

Protection

Standard rack up to #2 Camalot.

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