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Routes in Upper East Face
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Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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DH1? T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shock Therapy T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Dan Hare, John Ringeon, 1999 |
| Page Views: | 2,000 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on May 19, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure
Details
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
See description and topo on pages 30 and 31 of the Mark Rolofson Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide.
I thought Schizofrantic is way better and way harder than other 11a/b Boulder Canyon sport climbs I've done recently. The difficulty I experienced may have been due to the multiple cruxes, some strenuous, with no warm-up. I ended up hanging at all cruxes except the first, but I later did it clean on TR. Rolofson rates the cruxes as 11a (off the ground), 11a bulge, 10d dihedral (trad), 11b bouldery moves off the optional belay, 11a.
In my opinion Schizofrantic earns a few demerits for some unnecessary bolts (you are carrying a decent trad rack, so might as well place gear at several of the bolts), and for just barely skirting obvious trad variations. I'm surprised there isn't a trad climb in this area. Only the headwall above the optional belay is lacking in trad opportunities.
Approach: Schizofrantic is on the east face of East Blob Rock. Hike up the main Blob Rock trail and walk east along the base of Blob Slab. Head left up the gully along the base of the east face of East Blob. You will pass a large standing dead tree (Young and Rackless), and then the wall starts to overhang. The large right facing corner with a wide crack is Nighthawk, 10a. Just right of that is the trad finger crack, 12a Mile High Comic Crack. Right of that is the bolted finger crack The Enlightenment 13b/c. Right of that is a left facing corner and a large log across the gully. A few feet right of that 2 bolts lead over a bulge right off the ground. That's Schizofrantic.
Climb the initial bulge (11a) to a ramp, place some gear, and step left onto a steep wall to a rounded ledge (11a). You can more easily step right a move and bypass this section. The next section is trad. Reach right and then follow a crack left and up to a right facing dihedral. Finishing the dihedral to the optional belay ledge is 10d.
It doesn't make sense to me to belay at this ledge. There is a good 2-bolt anchor and another bolt a couple feet higher, but you'd be doing the 11b crux moves with hardly any rope out. So continue...
Some hard technical moves lead to a tricky short traverse left. You can get a small cam in the crack above. There is a bolt straight up. You can use the crack on the left in combination with holds on the right to move straight up to the bolt, or easier, just move left low and reach back right to clip. The final easier moves continue up a crack on the left until you can step back right onto big holds and then up to a ledge and the anchors.
Descent: CAREFUL. This really is 100'. Our rope hung short of the ground unweighted, but reached with rope stretch.
I thought Schizofrantic is way better and way harder than other 11a/b Boulder Canyon sport climbs I've done recently. The difficulty I experienced may have been due to the multiple cruxes, some strenuous, with no warm-up. I ended up hanging at all cruxes except the first, but I later did it clean on TR. Rolofson rates the cruxes as 11a (off the ground), 11a bulge, 10d dihedral (trad), 11b bouldery moves off the optional belay, 11a.
In my opinion Schizofrantic earns a few demerits for some unnecessary bolts (you are carrying a decent trad rack, so might as well place gear at several of the bolts), and for just barely skirting obvious trad variations. I'm surprised there isn't a trad climb in this area. Only the headwall above the optional belay is lacking in trad opportunities.
Approach: Schizofrantic is on the east face of East Blob Rock. Hike up the main Blob Rock trail and walk east along the base of Blob Slab. Head left up the gully along the base of the east face of East Blob. You will pass a large standing dead tree (Young and Rackless), and then the wall starts to overhang. The large right facing corner with a wide crack is Nighthawk, 10a. Just right of that is the trad finger crack, 12a Mile High Comic Crack. Right of that is the bolted finger crack The Enlightenment 13b/c. Right of that is a left facing corner and a large log across the gully. A few feet right of that 2 bolts lead over a bulge right off the ground. That's Schizofrantic.
Climb the initial bulge (11a) to a ramp, place some gear, and step left onto a steep wall to a rounded ledge (11a). You can more easily step right a move and bypass this section. The next section is trad. Reach right and then follow a crack left and up to a right facing dihedral. Finishing the dihedral to the optional belay ledge is 10d.
It doesn't make sense to me to belay at this ledge. There is a good 2-bolt anchor and another bolt a couple feet higher, but you'd be doing the 11b crux moves with hardly any rope out. So continue...
Some hard technical moves lead to a tricky short traverse left. You can get a small cam in the crack above. There is a bolt straight up. You can use the crack on the left in combination with holds on the right to move straight up to the bolt, or easier, just move left low and reach back right to clip. The final easier moves continue up a crack on the left until you can step back right onto big holds and then up to a ledge and the anchors.
Descent: CAREFUL. This really is 100'. Our rope hung short of the ground unweighted, but reached with rope stretch.
There's a little bit of everything on this pitch. A boulder problem start, steep flake pulling, a trad corner with a spicey mantle, then thin face. Each of these sections is separated by a no hands rest. The gear listhere and in the Rolofson guide is a bit much. I placed 3 or 4 medium stoppers and 2 cams. A single set of cams from .75 to 2 inches should be fine. Jul 26, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
I suspect I've done the top wrong twice now. Above the thin face upper crux I've moved left using a diagonal hand crack rather than continuing straight up to the next bolt along a thin crack. Moving left seemed logical and led to a welcome rest. Rolofson's topo shows the route jogging left and then back right in this vicinity, but maybe it moves left after climbing the thin crack? Nov 6, 2005
Fort Collins, CO
This is an interesting route though. A little bit of everything--jams, fingers, slopey face, awkward in places, straightforward in others. Nov 20, 2006
Boulder, CO