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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1991, Ivan Rezucha and Chris Monz
Page Views: 733 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tony Lopez on Apr 5, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 5.9 PG, 50'
From SethG: "This is not a bad little lead. The crux bulge is just fifteen feet or so off the ground so it is easy to scope out. There is great gear at the bucket hold beneath the crux. After a few reachy moves between poor crimps it is over. The pro is spaced for the rest of the way to the tree but the climbing is easier."

Pitch 2 5.10a PG, 60' (not recommended in the Williams guide)
From Ivan Rezucha: "The second pitch is the climb. The described first pitch is just the approach. The second pitch starts from the left side of the Strictly's ledge and (as I remember) climbs up and left to the rounded arete between Strictly's and (?) the Splashtic face. It's a little dicey. I remember a small Tricam. At the roof the gear is good. You move right and over the roof a bit left of Strictly's. Above that the climb peters out with no interesting place to go, so, the few times I did it, we climbed right and back down to the Strictly's anchor (just above the Strictly's crux)."

Williams has it join Travels with Charley after the overhangs and mentions a 5.9 R section.

Location

On arĂȘte between the Oscar's corner and Strictly.

Protection

Std. rack, yellow alien

Photos

Systematic
5.10a PG13
Systematic  
5.10a PG13
P1 is a fun lead with a pretty safe fall at the crux, but I think it's a notch over 5.9. The "poor crimps" are bad. One of them is often greasy. I think the move is more around 5.10a. Thoughts? Sep 26, 2016
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The second pitch is the climb. The described first pitch is just the approach. The second pitch starts from the left side of the Strictly's ledge and (as I remember) climbs up and left to the rounded arete between Strictly's and (?) the Splashtic face. It's a little dicey. I remember a small Tricam. At the roof the gear is good. You move right and over the roof a bit left of Strictly's. Above that the climb peters out with no interesting place to go, so, the few times I did it, we climbed right and back down to the Strictly's anchor (just above the Strictly's crux). May 14, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
Description (and comments) are missing the crux second pitch. I've never found a reasonable passage, but the Grey Dick makes it sounds pretty heady: climb the bulging face and roof just left of Strictly's. May 12, 2014
JSH

JSH    
As for the protection rating - a good belayer (ahem) can keep you off the ground. Apr 11, 2014
SethG  
This is not a bad little lead. The crux bulge is just fifteen feet or so off the ground so it is easy to scope out. There is great gear at the bucket hold beneath the crux. After a few reachy moves between poor crimps it is over. The pro is spaced for the rest of the way to the tree but the climbing is easier. Apr 10, 2014