Avg: 1.4 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||1991, Ivan Rezucha and Chris Monz|
|Page Views:||1,406 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Tony Lopez on Apr 5, 2014|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
From SethG: "This is not a bad little lead. The crux bulge is just fifteen feet or so off the ground so it is easy to scope out. There is great gear at the bucket hold beneath the crux. After a few reachy moves between poor crimps it is over. The pro is spaced for the rest of the way to the tree but the climbing is easier."
Pitch 2 5.10a PG, 60' (not recommended in the Williams guide)
From Ivan Rezucha: "The second pitch is the climb. The described first pitch is just the approach. The second pitch starts from the left side of the Strictly's ledge and (as I remember) climbs up and left to the rounded arete between Strictly's and (?) the Splashtic face. It's a little dicey. I remember a small Tricam. At the roof the gear is good. You move right and over the roof a bit left of Strictly's. Above that the climb peters out with no interesting place to go, so, the few times I did it, we climbed right and back down to the Strictly's anchor (just above the Strictly's crux)."
Williams has it join Travels with Charley after the overhangs and mentions a 5.9 R section.