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Quarry Wall at the Bank Rock Climbing
Routes in Quarry Wall at the Bank
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A Sharp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Alfalfa Omega S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Anarchy X T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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B Flat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bach & Roll S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bambi Meets Godzilla S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bits and Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blue Hair Special S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bomb’s Away S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bugenhagen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Butt Hole Bombers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Béal Mór S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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C Major T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Callate la Boca S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Christmas Crab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climb It Like You Stole It T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crabaholic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Nite S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crunchy Bunch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Destination Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diseased! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dust Lust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Enola Gay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Es ist einfach, nichts zu tun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Everything But The Girl S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Fire Marshall Bill S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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First Incisions S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fleur-de-lose S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fox on the Run S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friday Football Feast S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fuknut Mayhew S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fumblerooski S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Genius Jackson S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heart & Soul S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Herman Crab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hipster Doofus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Husker Nation S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Impending Doom S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Irishman, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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I’ll See the Light Tonight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jiggly Bits & Muffin Tops S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Johnny Rodgers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kid Charlemagne S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King’s Cup, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Last in Line, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Let There Be Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Love at First Sting S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Manchego V-easy 3 |
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Master Sergeant Mac S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Missing Persons S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mr. Junk Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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MRS Curse S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nailed It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nine to Noon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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On the Run Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Bullet and Mankind’s Alright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Outlandos de Amour S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Over The Hill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Over the Mountain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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P.A. & Charch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pear Shaped S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pet Your Friends S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pitchfork Posse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Play a Volta S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Professor Peart S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Putain de Critiques S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reggatta de Blanc S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Royal Scam, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Saints are Sinners S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scheißkopf S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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She Used to be My Girl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Show Stopper S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Silent Treatment, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sun Always Shines on TV, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swing Out Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tendon Respite aka Who Done It? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Toxic B.S. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tubby S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Under Lock & Key S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 10 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Warm-up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Walking in L.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wrinkle Ranch Sex Toys S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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You’re the Bomb S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zenyatta Mondatta S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Elevation: | 6,544 ft | 1,995 m |
| GPS: |
38.64085, -105.24069 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 64,396 total · 790/month | |
| Shared By: | MJM on Apr 21, 2019 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description, character & conditions
This quiet cliff has been around for many years with a dozen+ routes and currently has a lot of newer moderate climbing routes. Close to all of the original routes went up in the late '80s. This area has seen a lot of development over the past few seasons.
So expect changes.
Special thanks goes out to Rachel McGee & Dave “Bonz” Altieri!
The road to this area is visited by: climbers, horseback riders, ATV'ers, runners, campers and hunters.
*Hunters hunt a few miles up the road and are no issue.
Many of the campers that camp at the caves leave trash littered around the caves. Please pick up and pack out any trash.
Thanks!
Character
WARNING!
The old routes here are bolted old school style, so expect some runouts and / or outdated bolts and / or outdated anchors.
All routes begin from big flat ledges. All of these ledges are good for belaying with a few exceptions.
There are belay bolts in place below some climbs for your belayer.
There are many newer routes here, so BEWARE of loose rock!
When in doubt, wear a HELMET! Some climbs have high first bolts.
When in doubt, use a stickclip!
Conditions
Winter: cold and shady in the morning, sunny after noonish.
Spring: great and cool in the morning, sunny in the afternoon.
Summer: hot in the a.m. and really hot in the p.m. The gnats could be unbearable!
Fall: great cragging.
Getting There & Access
Drive down the Bank Road into the Bank area from the large parking lot. Pass The Piggy Bank / Bank Rob areas. Drive 0.6 miles, and park at the two quarry caves. There is parking for about 10 cars at or near the caves. The road is fairly easy for most cars, but a few rough, low clearance spots do exist. There is primitive camping at the quarry caves and just up the road on the left in a small open meadow.
#2. Hike the easy beautiful scenic road to the Quarry Wall. Allow about 40 minutes from the Bank parking lot to the Quarry Wall cliff itself if hiking.
Trail access:
Because of the new current rough trail access, young children visiting is not recommended.
The original trail goes straight up to Alfafa Omega. Locate the faint trail next to a BIG boulder about 100 yards past where the road meets the dry creek bed.
The new trail is located directly across the road from the 1st quarry wall and is rough in spots. Find the cairn, follow the reddish rock trail and go left into the dry creek bed. Once in the creek bed, locate the cairn immediately right, and switchback up the gentle slope to the middle cliff which puts you just right and below of the clean tan & black panel with the climbs Bambi Meets Godzilla & Tendon Respite.
At the fork, go left for the R.A.M.M. and Sledge Ledges and right for the Bambi Ledge, Bomb Ledge, and East Side Ledge.
Please stay on all trails to prevent erosion!
Areas are listed left to right, and only sport routes are listed here:
R.A.M.M Ledge. This area is from Anarchy X to Stone Cold Bush.
This area sits above a long ledge system and has an easy trail system with good belay areas.
At the fork, go left and then up a short incline (the beginning of the Sledge Ledge), and go left following a few dips in the trail. Once past the Blond Buttress, the trail dips and then rises to the R.A.M.M Ledge. The first route encounter is One Bullet and Mankind’s Alright.
Routes right-to-left:
One Bullet and Mankind’s Alright, .10c.
Herman Crab, .8.
Jiggly Bits & Muffin Tops, .10a.
Tubby, .9+.
Crunchy Bunch, .7.
Unknown, .10?
Reggatta de Blanc, .11a.
Outlandos de Amour, .10b.
Scheißkopf, .9.
Es ist einfach, nichts zu tun, .8.
Putain de Critiques, .7.
Callate la Boca, .8.
Béal Mór, .8+.
Pear Shaped, .7.
Love at First Sting S 5.10c
The R.A.M.M. Alcove
Crack Nite, .11b/c.
She Used to be My Girl S 5.10b
Pitchfork Posse, .10a.
Unknown, .10?
The Royal Scam, .9.
Unknown, .10+?
Genius Jackson, .7.
Pet your Friends, .7.
Heart & Soul, .7.
The Last in Line, .7.
Play a Volta .9
Kid Charlemagne .10a
Impending Doom .10 c/d
On the Run Again .9
Anarchy X .11a/b
The Sun Always Shines on TV .10a *Belay bolt in Place
Sledge Ledge. This area is from Stone Cold Bush to Blue Hair Special.
This area sits above a ledge system with good belay stations.
At the fork, go left and then up a short incline. This is the Sledge Ledge. The first route encountered is Blue Hair Special.
Routes right-to-left:
Blue Hair Special, .7.
Over The Hill, .9.
Wrinkle Ranch Sex Toys, .10b/c.
First Incisions, .11b/c.
Christmas Crab .8
I’ll see the Light Tonight, .10a.
Impeached .9
Funky Pretzels .11a
The King’s Cup, .10c.
Master Sergeant Mac, 11a.
Show Stopper, 11+.
Under Lock & Key S 5.11a
The Irishman, .10c/d.
Stone Cold Bush, .11c.
Toxic B.S. S 5.8
Bugenhagen S 5.10-
Bambi Ledge. This area is from Bambi Meets Godzilla to Fleur-de-lose.
This area sits above a ledge system with good belay stations.
At the fork, go right, and follow the trail to a large boulder at a short incline on the trail. Scramble up to several feet below the wall. The first route above the trail is Saints are Sinners.
Routes right-to-left:
Fox on the Run .7
Fleur-de-lose, .11a.
Saints are Sinners, .8+.
Unknown, .10a?
Unknown, .9?
Walking in L.A. 11b
Destination Unknown .10+
Everything but the Girl, .10-.
Swing out Sister, .10c.
Unknown, .10? Cold Shuts
The Politics of Dancing, .10-.
Missing Persons, .7+.
Bach & Roll .11c
The Silent Treatment, .11b. *Belay bolt in place
Unknown, .10?
Tendon Respite, .10a.
Bambi Meets Godzilla, .10c.
Bomb Ledge, This area is from Enola Gay to Bomb’s Away.
This area sits above a ledge system with good belay stations.
Access to this area is about 50+ yards to the right of the Bambi Ledge. It is an easy climber’s scramble up to the first route Bomb's Away116763847.
Routes right-to-left:
Bomb’s Away116763847, .10-.
You’re the Bomb, .10-.
Unknown, .10?
Enola Gay, .10c. *Belay Bolt in place
East Side Ledge. This area is from Alfalfa Omega to Bits and Pieces about 20 yards to the right of the Bomb Ledge. Belays for AO & DL are ok, but pay attention. Belays for Bit & Pieces to A Sharp are good.
Routes left-to-right:
Robertson route .11?
Alfalfa Omega.
Dust Lust.
Mr Junk Man .10-
Unknown .9?
Hipster Doofus .9
MRS Curse .9
Fire Marshall Bill >9+
Fuknut Mayhew .10-
B Flat
A Sharp
Professor Peart . 8+
Bits and Pieces .10b.
Husker Nation .7
Fumblerooski .9
Johnny Rodgers .10c
Over the Mountain .10c
Nine to Noon .9
P.A. & Charch .9
Friday Football Feast .9
Classic Climbing Routes at Quarry Wall at the Bank
Sun & Shade
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