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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joe Fitschen & Art Gran - 1961
FFA: Jim McCarthy - 1965
Page Views: 7,187 total, 50/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


89 Opinions

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Description

Transcontinental Nailway (AKA Freeway): an excellent, thought-provoking pitch.

Start about 40' left of Roseland at a steep, smooth slab that leads to a roof. Climb this slab and perform an extremely awkward move to get established below the roof (looks much easier than it is, and somewhat scary due to marginal pro). Pull the roof, step left, and climb a corner to bolt anchors at 80'.

Protection

Standard Rack.
Dan Flynn
MA
  5.10b PG13
Dan Flynn   MA  
  5.10b PG13
Slab not bad, crux has good gear... but man, that 5.8 stuff at the top took some focus to get through! PG13 in my book. Sep 25, 2013
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There's a "direct" John Bragg 5.10 P2 that goes, I think, more or less straight up after the P1 anchors. I know it's up there somewhere, but I can't picture it. It's been a while... Apr 20, 2009
Micah M
 
Micah M  
 
We went to the top in 1 pitch but the 2nd two thirds was all gardening and corn flacks. Is there a good finish to this climb? Apr 19, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
A nice variation at about 10a with decent pro goes left from the top of the corner above the crux and then straight up to the anchors. This avoids the scary 8 face move at the end of the regular route (which steps right out of the corner and then back left across an unprotected face). Oct 19, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The move onto the slab on the bottom is only 5.9, but scary, since the gear is mediocre and at your foot as you high step onto the slab using a one fingertip pocket. Someone had a bad accident cratering from this move about a year ago.

That one-finger pocket didn't exist originally--there was a pebble where the pocket now is. The pebble loosened over time and eventually fell out or was pulled out (hopefully just with fingers).

A similar thing happened on the ceiling crux. There is now a nice 2 or 3 fingertip slot that you layback to reach the jug. That slot didn't exist originally. My good friend and regular partner Jeff Pofit excavated the debris from the slot in 1974 with his fingers as he was scrabbling for a decent hold. Mar 9, 2006
Paul Crowder
  5.10b
Paul Crowder  
  5.10b
The vintage photos that are posted on this page as of 3/9/06 are really entertaining. My opinion - although getting past the overhang is reasonably hard, I think that the crux is actually not too far off the ground, where my memory is that you have to do a thin face move in order to make your way up and right to establish a position underneath the overhang. This is a great route. Mar 9, 2006