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Routes in Disappointment Peak

Chouinard-Frost Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Irene's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kim Schmitz Memorial Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Magpie Acres T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face - Lewis/Direen Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Description [Suggest Change]

This area includes popular climbs accessible from the Garnet Canyon trail. The standout climbs included Irene's Arete and Open Book. In general, the climbs don't summit the peak, and instead climb features along the flanks of the peak above the Garnet Canyon trail.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Park at the Lupine Meadows trailhead in Grand Teton National Park. Follow the trail through the lowlands for about 1.5 miles, until it begins switchbacking. There will be a fork to your left for the Valley Trail - which you ignore. At around 3 miles, take the left fork heading into Garnet Canyon. The right fork keeps going to Amphitheater and Surprise lakes - a nice hike, and my preferred way to descend from Open Book.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Disappointment Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 10
Southeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 38
East Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
West Face - Lewis/Direen Variation
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 130
Irene's Arete
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Open Book
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southeast Ridge
 10
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
East Ridge
 38
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
West Face - Lewis/Direen Va…
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Irene's Arete
 130
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Open Book
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
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