Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Disappointment Peak

Chouinard-Frost Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Irene's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kim Schmitz Memorial Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Magpie Acres T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face - Lewis/Direen Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade II
FA: Perry Gilbert 8-12-1935
Page Views: 1,416 total · 36/month
Shared By: Matt Schroer on Jul 20, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


From Lupine Meadows, hike to Amphitheater Lake. Cross the stream that connects Amphitheater to Surprise Lake, and head up the steep grassy hill to the base of a cliff on the saddle above. While following the climbers trail, you will notice an obvious gully with 2 large chockstones. Pass through a tunnel to bypass the first one (involves a mantle move, all of which is easier with your pack off), then follow climbers left around the second chockstone (some parties may desire a rope for either the ascent or descent of this part; 4th class). Above this gully, follow easy ground along a faint climbers trail to the summit ridge. Follow the path of least resistance along this ridge, first on the north of the ridge, then finishing on the southern aspect. This path will likely provide good excitement and exposure for the casual peak bagger. Stand on the lofty summit, look down the north aspect, and take in the view that is unlike any other in the Tetons.


Retrace the route to descend


If anything, a light teton rack (nuts, hexes, tricams, select cams) and short rope (30m) will be sufficient


Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
I took a slightly different route than described above which was mellow. At the base of the steeps on the far left side, work up and right on ledges until you reach the gully. This is only one or two moves of class 4. There is more or less a trail all the way to the top of this interesting peak, and the view from the summit is something else. Jul 23, 2016

More About Southeast Ridge