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Routes in Disappointment Peak

Chouinard-Frost Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Irene's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kim Schmitz Memorial Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face - Lewis/Direen Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike Lewis & Nick Direen
Page Views: 355 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mike A. Lewis on Aug 26, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

I was surprised by the quality of the climbing on this route. There are some loose rocks here and there - with a little traffic and folks doing a little cleaning, this route will be quite good (make sure no one is below!). I would imagine that this variation of the West Face has been climbed before - the cracks stand out and are really fun. But, the topo that exists for the original West Face route shows most of the route going left of our ascent.

The original West Face Route was climbed by Hans Kraus and partner in 1947. See the photo of the topo below to see the route as folks have been climbing it. This Lewis/Direen variation links up with the Kraus West Face route for the final pitch.

When looking at the wall, you will see a large golden shield about 2/3 of the way up the West Face. Aim for the left facing corner on the left side of the shield. There is a subtle prow that leads from the ground (about 40' downhill to the south of the saddle between the Red Sentinel and the West Face) to the bottom of the shield. On this prow, you will see a series of short splitter cracks, linked by fairly clean slabs and face climbing. Below, the shield, you will see a 30' vertical splitter crack in a slightly right facing corner - the crux, and awesome!

P1 (5.5): Scramble 60' or so through 5.4 climbing to a 25' left facing corner with a splitter crack. Belay on the ledge atop the crack. (30m).

P2 (5.7): Move past a small, steep left-facing corner to a slab, and then to the awesome, steep, splitter in a slightly right-facing corner with chicken heads, fist jams, and hand jams (the fist jams can be layed back). Belay atop the crack. (30m).

P3 (5.6): Move up and left through some small bulges and crack systems to the base of the shield's left side. There is a piton where I belayed. (30m).

P4 (5.6): Go right up the left facing corner to a ledge that ends the steep climbing (about 40' below the top of the West Face). (40m)

To Summit Disappointment: continue up and right (southeast) for 40' on 2nd class slabby terrain to the summit ridge. You'll see the summit area to the northeast from the ridge. There is still some exposed scrambling to get to the summit.

Descent: There are three rappel anchors taking you back down the West Face to the saddle of the Red Sentinel.

Rap1: The first is about 25' to the north along a flat ledge from where the last pitch topped out (2 pitons and a stopper). (38m)

Rap2: Rappel down and skier's right a bit to a slung horn. (38m)

Rap3: Rappel to the ground. (44m to the saddle)

Bring cordage that you are willing to leave behind to renew anchors.

Location

Find your way to the small saddle between the Red Sentinel and the West Face of Disappointment Peak.

Protection

Single rack of cams with extras of .5-2 Camelots, stoppers. No fixed anchors for the climb, only for the rappel.

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