Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 36.3916, -81.0473
FA: Bob Rotert, Ewell Culbertson, 1974
Page Views: 404 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Bryant on Oct 7, 2022
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

Runout Stone Mountain friction climbing!  A belayer capable of executing a running belay is a recommended for a safe lead. A running belay is needed after 1st bolt on P1, plus especially note that after the P2 1st bolt, it is ~60' to the next bolt. I recommend linking P1 and P2 to keep a running belay for that 60' runout on P2. If doing so, you may want a 70m rope, plus long slings for the P1 anchor and P2 1st bolt to reduce drag.  I'll let you do the math to determine your comfort for leading, but proper risk and mental assessment would be prudent.  Good route if looking for a mental test piece as the friction up high is good but it is all friction climbing.

P1 - 80' with 1 bolt at about 30', no rings at the anchor.

P2 - 120' with 1 bolt at about 20' up and to the right from anchors.  Then 1 bolt at about 80' and back left, bolted anchors at a horizontal crack back slightly right.  Originally, this pitch went up to the horizontal crack with no bolts.

P3 - 120' with no bolts and maybe? an old anchor with no rings. There is a rather old anchor and not obvious, seems to have gotten missed in the rebolt.  Located a little way under a large shelf and to the right of a small pine above the shelf.  Not sure these bolts are for this route.  Will update later.  The climbing is more moderate, 5.8 or low 5.9 grade.  Belaying at the large shelf or small pine is probably a better option.

P4 - 100'+ of lower angle rock.  Choose your route up.

Location Suggest change

Keep heading climber's right along the base, pass the Grand Funk dykes, then downhill.  Pass the dark and mossy water streak of Brown Sugar to a low area, then up small rise.  Locate double bolts about 30' off the ground just on the right side of the small rise.

Protection Suggest change

Committed and serious climbing. Best protection is friction skill and calm mind, plus a running belay. Potential ground falls of 80' and 160'. Bolts and anchors.

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