Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Pelot
Page Views: 546 total · 7/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Aug 18, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Mostly consistent featureless run-out 5.9 climbing with occasionally thinner moves.

Pitch 1(5.9)- Depending on where you start you can probably find a 'peace of mind' .5 cam placement before the climb begins in earnest. Clip two bolts and then place a piece in the horizontal before the two bolt anchor 130'.

Finish on Yardarm for two more pitches

Location

First bolted route left of No Alternative on Tree ledge

Protection

quick draws and singles cams of .75 and down might add some piece of mind

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
Paul Pelot did the "fa", although I've been told it used to be a free solo route prior to that ascent. Can't attest to the accuracy of that though.

Also, this line used to have a seperate finish between yardarm and no alt. Don't remember if it had a bolt though. Jan 7, 2013
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.9
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.9
There is indeed still a bolt on the correct second pitch and the bolt can be seen above some small overlaps from the flake shared with Yardarm. The second pitch goes slightly right off of the belay flake and stays to the left of No Alternative. There is another double bolted belay at the top of the second pitch, then no protection the rest of the way. Not that it is really needed. You can finish by heading straight up to the belay rings at the top, to the left of the tree island.

This route seems to get a bad rap for being run-out but it really isn't that bad. This is actually a really fun route. The bolts are right where you need them. Aug 29, 2015