Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Sandy Fleming, Steve Pachman
Page Views: 146 total · 4/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Oct 3, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the slab between Grand Funk and Taken For Granite. Climb up to the the first bolt on the second pitch of Grand Funk. This is your first pro and is about 75' off the ground. Be very careful as this is 5.9/5.10 rock and a fall could be unhealthy. Leave the dike and climb straight up from the bolt to a set of double anchors below the dark head-wall.

The second pitch passes one bolt then heads right up into the dark streak of the head-wall. All of the rock in the head-wall is covered in vegetation and debris from the large amount of runoff. It would need to be properly cleaned before leading the head-wall. The second bolt is located near the top of the steep portion. This is an old bolt and was not replaced during the re-bolting effort by the CCC. Finish the pitch at the flake on the left or continue up to one last bolt.

Finish the route by climbing easy rock to the top. There are no anchors on the right side of the mountain so it may be necessary to belay from a tree on the tree island to the left. Come back down to the anchors on the pulpit, traverse left for anchors on the top, or walk off.

I have lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the head-wall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I made it about 10' or 15' past the first bolt on the second pitch and slipped. I don't generally fall so my belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. I have since gone back and top-roped the second pitch through the head-wall. It was more difficult than any of the other 5.10+ routes I have climbed at Stone. Hopefully, this will not be true once cleaned.

Location

Just right of Grand Funk Railroad and left of the start for Taken For Granite.

Protection

Four bolts, one double ring belay, and some gear up higher. The fourth bolt can be used as a belay or a gear belay can be set up in the flakes to the left before the bolt.

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