Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 985 total · 9/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Aug 28, 2015
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Start just to the left of Father Knows Best. The route mostly follows a dark water stain straight up to the tree ledge. I started just to the right of the groove on some decent holds and climbed up until there was a flake to my left. I stepped across the groove to the flake and placed two small cams so that I would have some protection before the bolt.

It is also possible to start at the crack that is usually used for Father Knows Best and climb to the left at the top of the crack. This way looked a little easier and allows for cam or nut placements in the small crack.

Once I placed my cams, I stepped back across the groove and headed straight for the lone bolt. Keep in mind that this bolt is even with the first bolt on Father Knows Best and due to the slope of the ground, this route is a little bit taller. A running belay is a must on this route. I did not need it but it was nice knowing it was there. There is no more protection at all past the bolt and no way to escape. I carefully followed the dark rock up to a large block on the tree ledge and moved right to use the belay rings above Father Knows Best. The climbing is a little stiff and just as difficult or more than Father Knows Best. Do not attempt climbing this route if you are not comfortable with the grade or the long runout. A fall from up high would put you on the ground without a running belay, maybe even with it.

Location Suggest change

Between Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack and Father Knows Best. Rap back down from rings on Father Knows Best. Will need two ropes or an 80M. A 70M can be used but requires a short downclimb since the rope doesn't quite reach the ground.

Protection Suggest change

1 bolt and scarce pro at the bottom. Nothing up high.


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