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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,236 total, 46/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 16, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

One of a number of ways to get to the Tree Ledge for the big climbs, this is an interesting route in its own right. Be ready for some of that hairy Stone Mountain runout. A good warmup for things to come!

Starting up a left-facing corner and hand crack, the climbing is well protected until you're about two-thirds of the way up. From there, a 30-40' runout section will get you to a shallow overhang, where you can thankfully place a cam before pulling the balancy move onto more friction to a short finish at bolted rap anchors on the Tree Ledge.

Location

Starts just above the boulder field at the base of the mountain, about 30' right of Block Route. Scramble up to a left-facing corner with trees at the base. You'll need two ropes to rap down.

Protection

Medium gear; bolted anchors at the top.
I found the top section after the overhang to be a bit dirty, which is scary after 30-40 feet since your last piece. Easy climbing, not harder than the hardest slab bits lower on the route, but I found it to be the headiest part. Jun 4, 2017
Nate Thompson
Columbia, SC
  5.7+ PG13
Nate Thompson   Columbia, SC
  5.7+ PG13
I've climbed this route twice in the past two weeks and I could not decide which direction over the "roof" was on-route. I believe the correct route is actually to the right after following the initial crack up over the depression in the "roof" since you land just below the rap rings in this scenario. Lambert and Shull also outline the route in this way in their book. However, the more pronounced "u-slot" which perhaps is the namesake of this route on the left is way more fun. I can confirm the right foot high step with two crimp holds to get over the ledge - super fun move. At any rate I hope this alleviates some confusion. Apr 24, 2016
Will Bradford
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
Will Bradford   Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
You are correct- they're the first anchors for block route. Mar 25, 2015
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
Yea, i think you are referring to the mid anchors on block route. Feb 23, 2015
Will Bradford
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
Will Bradford   Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
Note on needing two ropes to get down from tree ledge:
If you get up to tree ledge and find yourself needing to rap down with one rope, it is possible to do so using the anchors for U slot and carefully making your way climber's left about 30 feet laterally and ~60 feet down to reach the belay station for a neighboring route (not sure the name) about 40 ft off the ground. A 60 m rope will JUST BARELY reach so make sure you tie knots in the ends. Would strongly recommend bringing two ropes to rap from, but this is a possibility if you have no other choice. Feb 22, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
  5.7
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
  5.7
Flexibility helps to get a right foot up on the sharp part of the slot. I thrutched it up there doing kind of a lieback to get a toe up and then rocked my weight onto it. Easy runout to the closest solid tree to build a belay. For a less heady slab lead, but a slightly harder move onto the roof/bulge, try Block route to the left. I didn't find this route to be PG13 probably because I had some Metolius offsets. I think the yellow/orange 2/3 went in the shallow flaring crack that leads you to the bulge. Without protecting that crack, it could be PG13 but it is very protectable. Plenty of pro off the ground and I don't think I went more than 20ft or so without placing a piece. That's not PG13 for Stone- unless you're counting the distance from the "crux" to the closest tree to belay from which is about 5.3. May 7, 2012
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.7+ PG13
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.7+ PG13
Learned today if you want to climb the route in the pic to the right of the tree on top of the traditional line bring some tri-cams and cams for flared cracks. Dont let the line pull you off to the left too far much like the guy in the pic. Jan 29, 2012
Mike you are absolutely right, you need two ropes if you want to set up TR or rappel down from the tree/anchors.

I have made this mistake before :/ Dec 13, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Nice Climb and good way to access tree ledge. There are numerous ways to climb this route but taking the low line, using the crack, seems to be the easiest and offers the most pro. Do not let the mantle onto the large ledge near the top freak you out of this line because it protects like non other!

  • I think you need to link up two ropes if you want to attempt a standard TR*
Oct 20, 2011
George Heib
  5.7+ R
George Heib  
  5.7+ R
Selected climbs says to use the arete (sp) and climb that up and then straight to the lower portion of the overlap. We used the dihedral and protected there before heading up. There is a very small u shape on the left side of the main block. It makes the route more difficult and I really thing the run out brings it very close to a ground fall if you don't protect in the narrow water groove. For a 5.7 it is a very heady runout and I don't think many people that know much about slab should have any business on this route's runout. I honestly think one bolt in between would make this a much more enjoyable classic climb, but again, if you go straight up the feet are there and it can protect after the runout. I think I slipped once on the whole route but wow this was a very big wake up and introduction to Stone. So much that our group realized this was a different kind of slab as supposed to LG and we thought it best to rap after this climb to train up a bit more. What a fun climb though and a great view from the belay station. That one little bolt would put this as a super classic in my book, but then again, almost ever starting route at the base's first bolt is what: 30-35ft up. Gotta love NC's very unique ethics. Oct 2, 2010
Not knowing where the route actually went, I aimed up and left from the starting crack toward what I thought looked like a "U" slot in the overlap. I plugged a cam below and left of the notch and pulled the overlap with a big high-step and a good left-hand crimp. A bit heady and with a bad slab fall if you blow that move, this variation isn't any harder than the 5.8 rating given the standard route. Mar 26, 2007