Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 379 total · 7/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts with Peer Pressure and splits off just past the first bolt. The bolt is easily seen from the ground and is located on top of a small, left-facing corner with big jugs. There are multiple options for getting started up to the corner, all of fairly equal difficulty, but there is a downward angling dike leading up to the corner that works best. The crack in the corner is too shallow for most gear placements so don't bother. A few minor moves will get you to two very large jugs stacked on top of each other that eliminate the need for footholds, or protection. The bolt is just above the jugs. This is where the climb gets interesting. Step out to the right on a small but obvious foothold, preferably with the left foot. Pinch a nice crystal just above you with the left hand and reach way out to the right for another nice crystal that will allow you to stand on the foothold. Smear your right foot over a pea sized crystal and crimp your way up, placing your left foot on the crystal that you originally had your right hand on. If you can pull it off without slipping, the climb now turns easy. Now, head to the top of a big flake on the right with small pines growing out of it. Don't bother with cams, the climbing is easy and there is a bolt on the wall just above the flake. From the right side of the flake make a fairly easy traverse over to the belay rings for Dream Waves/Dixie Crystals. At about the midpoint of the traverse it is necessary to step down several feet, however, the friction is great and there are several good holds. This route is an alternate start for routes using the previously mentioned belay station. The two bolts provide protection just where it is needed and no additional pro is needed unless you just feel safer with it. An interesting traverse all the way to the Tree Ledge can also be made from the belay rings.

Location

Up and left from the start of Dixie Crystals. Start the same as Peer Pressure.

Protection

Two bolts and the belay rings on the first pitch of Dixie Crystals/Dream Waves. Some possibilities for additional pro.

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