Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 36.3916, -81.0473
FA: Bill Webster, Emily Hull-Ryde (Late 1980s)
Page Views: 589 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jason Bryant on Sep 26, 2021
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

Another great Stone Mountain slab route from the tree ledge.  As with much of Stone, a fall at the wrong time will be a long one.  This route has good texture for foot grip as well as quite regularly horizontal lips/eyebrows that come as close to a handhold as you will see on a pure friction Stone route.  I'd describe this as a great 5.9 slab starter... but with the typically Stone bolt spacing, so have a clear head if leading.  There is some significant spacing between bolts on P1 after the 1st bolt.  This is a good lead if you have the head game for the runouts.

P1 - 165' with 3 bolts and bolted anchors.  Start from the tree ledge either along the flakes of Banana Breath or directly under the first bolt of Banana Breath.  Clip the first bolt of Banana Breath, then progress up to the right toward a bolt ~40' up, but don't get on the lesser slope that is Yardarm.  The 3rd bolt @ ~40' and anchors are mostly straight above from the 2nd bolt.  From 3rd bolt to anchors is around 50'.

P2 - 80' with 2 bolts and bolted anchors.  Continue straight up to bolt which is actually the 2nd bolt on P2 of Yardarm.  At this point it follows Yardarm to another bolt and anchors.  This pitch is easier than the first, 5.8 range.

Location Suggest change

The route is located at the obvious multiple flakes laid side by side just above the middle section of the tree ledge.  The start can follow the beginning of Banana Breath or directly under the first bolt of Banana Breath.  Adrift goes up between Banana Breath and Yardarm.

Protection Suggest change

Each pitch has bolts and belay anchors.  Let's call it Stone Mountain runout caution. No place for gear after the 1st bolt which getting to 1st bolts is 5.8 climbing. Some bolts are spaced 40-50'. Running belay may be considered on P1.

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