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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Dailey, Stan Wallace (1972)
Page Views: 4,588 total, 39/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1- Climb 5.8 friction climbing to the first bolt (25ft). Clip with great relief and follow the right trending water drain to a second bolt. This is very runout, but the rock here is very featured. Clip the second bolt and the two ring anchor is another 15 feet up. (5.8)

Pitch 2- Climb up and left past some overlaps. Clip a bolt and head up on easier ground to another bolt and a bolted belay station. (5.8)

Location

This route is 30 feet to the left of No Alternative. Look up to see a right-facing crack and some small flakes. Top out the climb and walk left or right to bolted rap stations. Make sure not to run into ascending parties on your way down.

Protection

Consider using a tcu before the first bolt on Pitch 1. The rest could be done on no more than six quickdraws. All anchors are fixed ring anchors.
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8-
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8-
The topo in Selected Climbs shows the route starting the same as Banana Breath and traversing back right under the bolt. The topo is what caused me to start in that manner and clip the bolt on Banana Breath. I am sure many others have done the same. Even though not technically correct, I don't think it has much of an effect on the overall integrity of the route. We generally just use Yardarm as a warm-up to get our heads right for the harder climbs. While there is some runout between the bolts, the ease of climbing offsets any danger. This route is very friendly to sticky climbing shoes. For those that like to top out, there is a third pitch on easy ground. Jul 21, 2014
P. Sully
  5.8 R
P. Sully  
  5.8 R
John, the description of pitch one is not correct for the original Yardarm route.

The original route goes straight up to the first bolt 40' up. There is some shabby gear before the bolt but the crux of the climb is right before the 1st bolt. I remember it distinctly as it was one of my first ever leads, and I was scared shitless.

Most parties do climb the route as described above; by clipping the bolt on Banana Breath 1st. Either way you are run out when you pull the crux move.

The 1st bolt is placed at the 1st good stance for hand drilling on lead which is the way this route was put up; just like most of the routes at Stone. Just think back when this was established sticky rubber had not yet been invented. Aug 24, 2012
John Saunders
Cornelius, NC
John Saunders   Cornelius, NC
This is quite confusing. Ive seen plenty clip that bolt on banana breath which is actually about 25' up. The one time I tried this one, I climbed up the lower left facing corner to a flake then attempted to pull through the bulge straight below the bolt that was about 40' up.. that bulge was harder than 5.8 which I sketched on and downclimbed.. which is it? 25' to banana breath bolt or 40' to higher bolt? Either way I don't think that bulge is 5.8 if you have to pull it. Crystal Lizards (5.8+) wasn't that difficult.. Dec 29, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
First ever slab lead at Stone and Boy oh Boy it was a wild ride! Easy terrain all the way up but the pro is few and far between. Clipping the first bolt is a bit dicey and unnerving but after some committing moves you are rewarded with easy ground the rest of the way up (minus the freaky deaky run outs). This climb will definitely put your head on right and if you send it without pooping yourself then a wonderful future of Slab climbing awaits you!!! Oct 20, 2011