Type: Sport, 280 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Rowins, Chris Kulczycki 1978
Page Views: 7,432 total · 94/month
Shared By: GWB on Jun 20, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Take a look at the huge right facing arch that dominates Stone Mountain. Instead of climbing the crack at the base of this arch follow the top of the arch arete starting at the far left side of the tree ledge.

beginning left of the Great Arch, head up to the bolt on Great Brown Way. If you aren't looking for real excitement on the Brown Way, make a few moves to the right (crux) stretching to reach the arete above the Great Arch. Once your right hand is firmly slapping the arete, cruise up to the bolted belay just out left. Be careful not to slip off before getting to the belay, a fall would likely land you at the base of the Great Arch.

Pitch 2 has you move back right to the arete then head upwards until you can make your way into a groove. Head up the groove and stretch your rope towards the trees.

Location

Atop the tree ledge, look at the Great Arch... then look at the obvious line above the Arch. Climb this arete.

Protection

Ha! this is Stone, maybe a bolt or two each pitch.

Photos

Emil Briggs
  5.10a PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.10a PG13
The protection description for this climb is not quite right. You can use small to medium cams and/or nuts to protect the moves getting to the bolt on Great Brown Way. While not the technical crux of the route most people would probably want some pro for these moves. Jan 2, 2014
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10- R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10- R
Classifying this climb as a sport route with a PG 13 protection rating is rather amusing. Mar 3, 2015
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.10a PG13
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.10a PG13
Very unique route and very exciting! I felt the crux was starting the traverse after the first bolt on GBW. This route definitely has some "do not F*@k up zones" on it - both down low and up high, though the climbing gets easier the higher you climb. Apr 4, 2018