Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Don Hunley, Jim McEver, Reid Thompson
Page Views: 4,459 total · 32/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


51 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

At North Carolina's home of scary runout slab climbing, Dirty Crack is one of a handful of routes that's well-protected from start to finish. That doesn't mean it's easy; there's some thin moves midway up that might make you want to grab one of the trees growing out of the crack. "Dirty Crack" may have been an apt name in the past, but in fact this is a clean route that's a worthwhile lead.

Starting at the obvious right-facing dihedral, follow the thinning crack up past a couple of trees to the Tree Ledge.

Location

Starts below the far right end of the Tree Ledge at a right-facing dihedral. 10' right of Entrance Crack. Rap on two ropes from rap rings at the top of Father Knows Best or any of the other Tree Ledge rap anchors.

Protection

A good range of gear up to 4" (big pieces mainly near the start); there's also trees to sling. Anchor to trees at the top.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Great climb, almost totally out of character with the rest of Stone Mountain. A tenuous move or two where the crack is really thin adds to the spice. Apr 4, 2007
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
I don't know why this is only a two-star climb. It's one of the best ways to get to Tree Ledge. Apr 9, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.8
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.8
Did anybody notice the secret hold when the crack narrows down too far to hold onto? Aug 18, 2010
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
 
Great climb to gain the tree ledge when other climbs like entrance crack, u-slot, and block route are taken. Also, this provides a bit more of a challenge then the previously mention climbs. Tiny gear protects the thin section after the tree. Feb 18, 2013
Looks like the first tree that people sling for pro has seen better days. Nov 4, 2013
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
I agree Emil. It's a shame too because it's really not needed for pro. The crack under the arete right there takes good pro and there is good pro just after the tree as well. I have a feeling though that the beating the tree is taking is as much from people resting on it and using it to hold onto as from slinging it. Nov 4, 2013
Nate Thompson
Columbia, SC
  5.8
Nate Thompson   Columbia, SC
  5.8
This route was pretty hard today due to water, so watch out for the bit of moisture that forms up near the crux where there holds get less abundant where the crack thins. Apr 29, 2016
Peter Tsongalis  
  5.8
Update as of October 7th, 2017
None of the trees exist mid pitch anymore making it a tad run out through the crux. Bring the little friends :)
Definitely my favorite way to get to the tree ledge. Oct 15, 2017

More About Dirty Crack

Printer-Friendly