Dream Waves
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
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Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | Chris Rowins, T. Meager |
Page Views: | 1,042 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Johnny O on Sep 5, 2014 |
Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
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Description
The first pitch is the same as Dixie Crystals. It is the first bolted line to the left of White Way Direct. There are two bolts and a bolted belay. There are a multitude of ways to start but one of the easier is a nice flat spot just left of a massive pine tree and below a large dish in the rock. The first bolt is a little awkward to access. Climb straight above it or move around right on easier ground and up into some flakes. The second bolt just seems to be off of the line and doesn't make sense. I am a little dubious of the bolts as "Select Climbs" is the only guide showing these two bolts. The earlier guides show no bolts. There is another line just uphill on a large block that climbs up on a dike and some seams/scoops towards the belay rings. It is of equal difficulty but has only one opportunity for pro and is sketchy at best but looks to be the earlier line.
From the belay, follow the dike that heads up and to the left. The crux is just off of the belay where the the dike becomes thin. The guidebooks recommend clipping the bolt on Dixie Crystals to protect the second through the crux. I went ahead and did so but it is a little out of the way. There are two bolts along the dike before the belay. The first is along easy terrain and the second is just past a fun, tougher section. The belay is on a decent sized ledge just above the dike and below a sickle shaped overlap/flake.
The third pitch follows the dike a short distance then heads straight up to the sickle shaped flake. This is the only spot on the entire pitch that can be protected. Continue up to a ledge with several trees at the base of a large overhang. Use a tree for the belay. The fourth pitch continues to the summit and is unprotected. It is too easy to matter.
From the belay, follow the dike that heads up and to the left. The crux is just off of the belay where the the dike becomes thin. The guidebooks recommend clipping the bolt on Dixie Crystals to protect the second through the crux. I went ahead and did so but it is a little out of the way. There are two bolts along the dike before the belay. The first is along easy terrain and the second is just past a fun, tougher section. The belay is on a decent sized ledge just above the dike and below a sickle shaped overlap/flake.
The third pitch follows the dike a short distance then heads straight up to the sickle shaped flake. This is the only spot on the entire pitch that can be protected. Continue up to a ledge with several trees at the base of a large overhang. Use a tree for the belay. The fourth pitch continues to the summit and is unprotected. It is too easy to matter.
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