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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sandy Fleming, David McClain (1990)
Page Views: 440 total, 11/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

The first pitch is rather well protected with four bolts before the belay anchors. Each one is just where you need it. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts where the rock really gets steep and requires a couple of precarious but fun moves. The climbing leading to the crux can be a little heady at times but isn't bad. The remainder of the pitch is a little runout but the climbing is only moderate.

The second pitch does not have any fixed protection but there are a few spots where some pro could be placed near the top of the pitch. Head up and slightly left towards the Oasis. Stay on the right side of the raised section of rock with a pine tree on top of it. The climbing through this area is only moderate but the lack of protection does make it dangerous. When nearing the pine, there are some thin, loose flakes to the right that should not be used for holds or pro as they could break off easily. Continue up and cross over to the left above the pine tree and into the safety of the Oasis. I usually choose to climb the second pitch with zero pro but there are a few spots where additional protection is possible, especially with the use of slings. The route can be finished on the Pulpit for a couple of additional easy pitches.

Location

Between Pandora's Way and Orange Blossom Special.

Protection

Pitch 1 has four bolts and a bolted belay. Pitch two has no fixed pro. Slings may come in handy for tying off on horns and flakes. There might be some opportunities for cams but be aware that there are some loose flakes.

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Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Weird, when I looked at this yesterday, none of that info was there. It was blank. Apologies and thanks for the addition. Sep 7, 2014
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
 
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
 
It is all above. What else are you looking for? Sep 6, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Where's all the information? Sep 6, 2014