All Locations > N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Stone Mountain > Stone Mtn S Face

The Purring

Name: The Purring
Rating: 3.7

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type:	Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Sandy Fleming, David McClain (1990)
Page Views:	1,038 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Johnny O on Sep 6, 2014
Admins:	Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The first pitch is rather well protected with four bolts before the belay anchors. Each one is just where you need it. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts where the rock really gets steep and requires a couple of precarious but fun moves. The climbing leading to the crux can be a little heady at times but isn't bad. The remainder of the pitch is a little runout but the climbing is only moderate.

The second pitch does not have any fixed protection but there are a few spots where some pro could be placed near the top of the pitch. Head up and slightly left towards the Oasis. Stay on the right side of the raised section of rock with a pine tree on top of it. The climbing through this area is only moderate but the lack of protection does make it dangerous. When nearing the pine, there are some thin, loose flakes to the right that should not be used for holds or pro as they could break off easily. Continue up and cross over to the left above the pine tree and into the safety of the Oasis. I usually choose to climb the second pitch with zero pro but there are a few spots where additional protection is possible, especially with the use of slings. The route can be finished on the Pulpit for a couple of additional easy pitches.

Location

Between Pandora's Way and Orange Blossom Special.

Protection

Pitch 1 has four bolts and a bolted belay. Pitch two has no fixed pro. Slings may come in handy for tying off on horns and flakes. There might be some opportunities for cams but be aware that there are some loose flakes.

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