Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sandy Fleming, David McClain (1990)
Page Views: 549 total · 11/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch is rather well protected with four bolts before the belay anchors. Each one is just where you need it. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts where the rock really gets steep and requires a couple of precarious but fun moves. The climbing leading to the crux can be a little heady at times but isn't bad. The remainder of the pitch is a little runout but the climbing is only moderate.

The second pitch does not have any fixed protection but there are a few spots where some pro could be placed near the top of the pitch. Head up and slightly left towards the Oasis. Stay on the right side of the raised section of rock with a pine tree on top of it. The climbing through this area is only moderate but the lack of protection does make it dangerous. When nearing the pine, there are some thin, loose flakes to the right that should not be used for holds or pro as they could break off easily. Continue up and cross over to the left above the pine tree and into the safety of the Oasis. I usually choose to climb the second pitch with zero pro but there are a few spots where additional protection is possible, especially with the use of slings. The route can be finished on the Pulpit for a couple of additional easy pitches.

Location

Between Pandora's Way and Orange Blossom Special.

Protection

Pitch 1 has four bolts and a bolted belay. Pitch two has no fixed pro. Slings may come in handy for tying off on horns and flakes. There might be some opportunities for cams but be aware that there are some loose flakes.

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Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Where's all the information? Sep 6, 2014
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.10c
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.10c
It is all above. What else are you looking for? Sep 6, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Weird, when I looked at this yesterday, none of that info was there. It was blank. Apologies and thanks for the addition. Sep 7, 2014