Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Eric Zchiesche, Robin Hinkle
Page Views: 1,338 total · 9/month
Shared By: Doug Swords on Sep 16, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

A challenging and unique Stone Mountain route with a nice variety of corner, dikes, slab, bulge pull and water groove. Start by using the first dike off the ground to gain access to a left facing, sickle shaped corner (does not take gear well). Another dike feature with large holds awaits at the top of the corner with a bolt just above (shared bolt with Wahoo Start). Various option exist to continue up and eventually slightly left along another dike with the 2nd bolt above where dike runs thin. Continue up past the 3rd bolt to a bulge to pull over into a water groove. Follow the water groove past 4th bolt and dikes to the 5th. From 5th bolt traverse left to dike and continue up to anchors just above dike (easiest option to cross some polished rock). Or continue up water groove (Wet Dreams start) until beside a small flake on left where you traverse left across a longer section of polished rock to anchors (riskier option, but climber's choice). Most consider this a one pitch route, but a few options exist to continue up other routes to top out.

Location Suggest change

Uphill from left side of south face below the left end of tree ledge. Route begins at a left facing, sickle shaped corner just downhill of a holly tree.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts and bolted anchors. No worthwhile gear.

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