Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Sandy Fleming, Steve Pachman
Page Views: 174 total · 4/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Aug 30, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts at the beginning of the third pitch of Dream Waves. Continue on the dike, past the first bolt of Dream On, through the darker colored rock. There is another bolt on the dike to protect the sketchy moves through the dark rock. This bolt is older and was not replaced by the CCC during the rebolting effort. After leaving Dream On, the dike becomes very thin and quite slick so use caution. There are a few spots to place gear once through the dark rock. The first pitch ends at a set of double bolts without rings, near the end of the dike. For the second pitch, climb up and left towards the final belay of Fantastic.

It is also possible to continue on past the end of the dike to the Fantastic belay anchors located on the second terrace, then climb the final pitch of Fantastic. All of the rock is similar and of about the same grade near the end no matter which way you finish. However, if you skip the first pitch belay and continue to the belay on the 2nd terrace, it is about 210' and will require a 70M rope.

Location

Left side of the mountain, near the terraces. Begins with the third pitch of Dream Waves. Recommend two ropes to rappel.

Protection

Two bolts, belay anchors on both pitches, and some opportunities for additional pro.

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