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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan
Page Views: 633 total · 8/month
Shared By: Edward Medina on Nov 13, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Another hidden gem on the far right side of the south face. Pitch 1 is pretty short with a single bolt about 20 feet up. Pitch 2 is shown to end at the Oasis, but this may be difficult with a 60 meter rope. A gear belay can be built just past a small pine growing behind a flake. From here easy moves bring you to the Oasis rap station.

Location

Left of Electric Boobs

Protection

Small to medium cams useful for building an anchor.

Photos

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nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Fun climbing but the pitch length's are all messed up, with the first being super short and the second being super long. Don't know if this is how it was originally done though. Mar 14, 2012
I think a bolt may have been added to the first pitch of this. Originally the first pitch went up to a bit of a bowel for the belay. I believe it already had an old bolt in it left by some rappelling effort in the past. We were wondering what kind of trouble we were climbing into on this one so we named it Pandora's way.

It was the second of three new route's put up one 3 day Easter Weekend when Tom and I were in high school. 1973 I believe. The first was Electric Boobs, second this route and third Mecury's lead.

There was a sketchy tree limb, basically imaginary pro but may have slowed you a bit if you fell, we tied it off for pro to get up into the bowl for the first belay.

Second pitch then led off up and left out of the bowel as I recall and had a hairy run out after placing a bolt 30 or so feet out from the belay. Apr 4, 2012
That bowl sounds like where the first bolt of the 2nd pitch is now. This would be maybe 80 feet off the ground. Very interesting. Apr 19, 2012
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
 
There's presently evidence of a chopped bolt about 20' up, a good bolt 40 feet up, and an anchor in the bowl. It's a spicy first 40 feet, you climb right through the ends of some small tree limbs just before the bolt. Maybe when it got rebolted it was done to simulate the previous tree limb pro? Oct 20, 2014
That sounds right. We used the tree limb as the only pro to get into the bowl about 80 feet up and belayed there. Apr 26, 2017

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