Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 36.3916, -81.0473
FA: Tom McMilan; Jim Mcever
Page Views: 633 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jason Bryant on Nov 12, 2021
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Welcome to one of the seldom climbed areas of Stone Mountain.  With that in mind, expect some dusty lichen at the start, plus some crumbling rock in places.  A wire brush will probably be helpful.  You'll be rewarded with some solitude as well as some beautiful and unique featured rock.

P1 - Start from on top of a large, detached block just off the right end of the large overhanging horizontal crack feature.  The first bolt is about 15' up off the block.  I see two methods of gaining the first bolt.  1) From the right side of the detached block pull onto the face and work slopey pockets back to the left to the bolt.  This is the easier line but more consequential falls.  2) Pul on from atop the center of the detached block directly under the bolt.  The crux is the granite slab boulder problem right off the ground and getting to the first bolt.  A fall will put you back on detached block with belayer spotting.  This likely includes a couple of 5.11 move.  One can also redneck stick clip the first bolt (Check behind the detached block for the redneck's stick.  Please return.  It's a great lead with a stick clip.)  Now drift slightly to the right for the 2nd bolt at a double lip bulge feature. (The second bolt of Back to School is just up and left.  One could link routes for a different way of going over the bulge.)  From here work up and right to the 3rd bolt, gear opportunity exists here to protect pulling over the bulge feature if desired.  Various options are available to pull the bulge to the 3rd bolt.  Now choose your path up once again, 1) stay to left of the water streak the easier path up or 2) take a section of somewhat polished rock straight up the water streak to the anchors located on the face of left end of the first terrace.  Get to the anchor by swinging left of a 4' pine or stepping over a block to go right of the pine.

P2 - Various options exist for a second pitch to top out.  Or just rappel.  I'm listing this as 1 pitch route.  If folks think it should be listed as 2 pitches, please provide feedback.

Location Suggest change

In the terraces area which is left and uphill from Block Route, all the way to the top of the knoll.  There is no trail for this area.  Start from on top of a large detached block just off the right end of the large overhanging horizontal crack feature.

Protection Suggest change

3 Bolts, 1-2 opportunities for gear, Bolted Ring Anchors

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