All Locations > N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Stone Mountain > Stone Mtn S Face

Caveman

Name: Caveman
Rating: 2.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Amtrak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Between The Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Brown Sugar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Mama's Goin' Crazy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Permission Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Rock Island Line (Grand Funk alt. finish), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	Tom McMilan; Jim Mcever
Page Views:	539 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Jason Bryant on Nov 12, 2021
Admins:	Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

Welcome to one of the seldom climbed areas of Stone Mountain. With that in mind, expect some dusty lichen at the start, plus some crumbling rock in places. A wire brush will probably be helpful. You'll be rewarded with some solitude as well as some beautiful and unique featured rock.

P1 - Start from on top of a large, detached block just off the right end of the large overhanging horizontal crack feature. The first bolt is about 15' up off the block. The crux is the granite slab boulder problem right off the ground and getting to the first bolt. Now drift slightly back to the right for the 2nd bolt at a double lip bulge feature. (The second bolt of Back to School is just up and left. One could link routes for a different way of going over the bulge.) From here work up and right to the 3rd bolt, gear opportunity exists here to protect pulling over the bulge feature if desired. Various options are available to pull the bulge to the 3rd bolt. Now a section of somewhat polished rock lies between the 3rd bolt and the anchors located on the face of left end of the first terrace. Get to the anchor by swinging left of a 4' pine or stepping over a block to go right of the pine.

P2 - Various options exist for a second pitch to top out. Or just rappel. I'm listing this as 1 pitch route. If folks think it should be listed as 2 pitches, please provide feedback.

Location

In the terraces area which is left and uphill from Block Route, all the way to the top of the knoll. There is no trail for this area. Start from on top of a large detached block just off the right end of the large overhanging horizontal crack feature.