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Requiem to a Dream
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
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Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Amtrak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Back to School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Between The Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Brown Sugar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mama's Goin' Crazy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Permission Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Rock Island Line (Grand Funk alt. finish), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 36.3916, -81.0473 |
| FA: | Lee Munson, Steve Pachman |
| Page Views: | 341 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Bryant on Nov 18, 2022 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Getting through the first couple of bolts is the business of this route. Highly recommend bringing a brush as the route is seldom climb and can get rather crusty at the bottom. The first crux will be getting off the ground. A second crux is navigating the bulge above the first bolt.
P1 - Fight your way onto the face from one of various positions under the 1st bolt. Getting the first bolt will be an accomplishment. Another challenge awaits just above this first bolt. After the second bolt, the difficulty backs off significantly. Pull a bulge to gain the 3rd bolt that is shared with Caveman. Between the 3rd bolt and the anchors located on the face of left end of the first terrace just above a small pine, one can choose their finishing adventure. Going right above the 3rd bolt lies a section of somewhat polished rock that keep one's attention all the way to the anchor. Going left above the 3rd bolt is chill section of runout that allows a Stone aficionado to go into cruise control to the anchor.
Various options exist for a second pitch to top out if desired. Some finger size gear could be used at the bulge below the 3rd bolt and along the corner, if you take the right option, before the anchors to reduce runout if desired.
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