Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1971
Page Views: 9,505 total · 77/month
Shared By: nbrown on Nov 27, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the most historic and classic routes at Stone Mountain. It was the first route to follow a "line" of a different sort. Instead of following a crack, it follows a dike feature that runs somewhere in the range of 600'.

P-1 Climb the face on good edges and smears to a bowl at the first bolt. Move right across a long slab traverse to the "railroad" dikes, and follow these past another bolt to the belay. Optional 5.10R/X climbs straight up past the first bolt.

P-2 Roughly follow the dike feature past two bolts to a weird traverse through a water streak to a good ledge and belay.

P-3 Friction a short ways to gain the dike again, and sling horns for pro. Continue up to a bolted belay on a small ledge.

P-4-6 Continue up the dike to the top. The last belay is located atop some large flakes.

Note: It is very reasonable to simulclimb the upper half of this route, or just combine pitches.

Location

At right end of the main area, on top of a little knoll. The start is marked by a water streak and tiny flared crack/seams.

Protection

Light rack
mbuntaine
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9 PG13
mbuntaine   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9 PG13
By light rack, it really means light rack. We ended up taking a bunch of gear that we never used for this climb. No gear placements on P1, P2, P3 (other than slung horns), P6. I think we got in one .4 on P4 and one #1 of P5. It's really not worth hauling a light rack -- maybe a couple of small cams at most. There were a couple of tri-cam pockets on the upper pitches, but of course we left these on the ground and substituted a bunch of useless nuts.

Careful on P3, there are some LARGE, loose flakes. Wouldn't want to send a 100-pound razor sharp flake down on your belayer.

The P1 traverse is pretty spicy, so make sure your belayer picks their path into the woods for a running belay. Oct 26, 2009
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Choo Choo, its Grand Funk Railroad calling your name!!! Beautiful feature trends left across a huge swath of the cliff face so you get a taste of a lot of different terrain. Great sticky rubber slabbing, some vertical featured climbing as well as some killer water groove climbing.Pretty much bring draws, slings (for some gnarly chicken heads) and a couple small cams and tricams for the loftier pitches, keep it minimalistic though it doesn't take much.

Don't forget to bring tons of water on this climb and perhaps a snack or two because this route is a drawn out affair. Oct 18, 2011