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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Gerald Laws, Buddy Price 1974!!!
Page Views: 10,194 total, 97/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is the quintessential water groove route at Stone Mountain and like the guide book says...if your heart ain't racing and you ain't having fun...you must be dead.

Start from the very left edge of the Tree Ledge. Look for the second water groove past the Great Arch.

Pitch 1: Climb the water groove on the left side past 2 bolts, then step into the groove and climb past 2 more bolts to the anchor at a stance on the left of the groove. 5.9, 110 feet.

Pitch 2: Ready to get your groove on? Climb up the deepening groove past one bolt to another anchor on the left side of the groove. 5.8, 110 feet.

Pitch 3: Continue up the groove for 50 feet to the trees. 5.6, 50 feet.

Location

Left edge of the Tree Ledge...second water groove...mmm....goood....

Protection

Take 4 quickdraws and something for the bolted belays...that is all you will need.
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Most/all routes at Stone Mountain have an implied R rating. They also use the running belay technique...ie...leader falls, you run...when possible. Oct 21, 2011
CameraisHeavy
Everett, wa
CameraisHeavy   Everett, wa
1 bolt in 110ft and no R rating? Even on slab a 100-150 ft rag doll would likely cause injury. Mar 4, 2011
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.9 R
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.9 R
Kudos to JL for the lead...in Winter...in fingerless wool gloves! Jul 14, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9
If you're looking for a hair-raising lead, Great White Way definitely fills the bill. I've never had to put as much trust in pure friction and footwork. What an exciting line -- I won't forget this one for a long time! Many thanks to Ben and Jody for letting me lead all three pitches.

More route details, for anyone who's interested:

I thought the hardest moves were at the start, right off the ledge. Fortunately, the first bolt can be clipped from the ledge -- this doesn't make the start any easier, but a lot less scary. The first three bolts are fairly closely spaced, so you probably won't want to get into the groove until you've clipped the third bolt. The fourth bolt -- much higher on the pitch -- is way off to the left and can't be clipped without moving out of the groove onto the face, which is pretty damn stomach-churning considering how run out you are at that point. The same is true of the P1 belay.

The second pitch in the deepening groove is much less tenuous than the first, but still not casual. Lots of runout leading up to the sole bolt, and from that bolt to the belay. Also, this pitch is probably closer to 150'. The third pitch is pretty much of a romp up to the tree island.

As to getting down, if you're there when it's not crowded, you can get away with rapping the route; first double-rope rap is from the rings at the top of P2 of Great Brown Way (a short distance right of the topout), which will get you to the P1 anchors for Great White Way; from there, one more rap brings you back to the tree ledge. However, if there's any chance of other climbers coming up from below, don't do this; instead go up and over the tree island to the Great Arch rap station. Feb 28, 2010