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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
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Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Amtrak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Back to School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Between The Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Brown Sugar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mama's Goin' Crazy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Permission Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Rock Island Line (Grand Funk alt. finish), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Vince Davis (Solo) |
| Page Views: | 418 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Bryant on Nov 18, 2021 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Another Stone Mountain water groove. This water groove has a bit more shape, but still some polished areas and no bolts. Most information list this route as unprotected and X rated. Remember that this route was originally an unprotected solo route. Top roping the route after climbing Zoo Love or Dream Waves is an option as each has a pitch that comes to the same anchor location of P1.
P1 - 130' with no bolts and natural anchors. This water groove and route start at the 1st bolt of Dream Waves P2 along the dike. Various options exist for climbing to this starting point. Peer Pressure would be a option, plus Peer Pressure starts up the water groove with a traverse to the shared anchors of Dream Waves P2. Wet Dreams could then be continued from this point which would increase the protection. If starting from elsewhere consider your belay options and rope length. I did find an opportunity for small finger-sized gear (An offset cam was the only piece I got to hold solidly, but it was solid.) ~40' up which the climbing after this drops to 5.8 in my opinion.
P2 - 80' with no bolts and natural anchors. Zoo Love and Dream Waves also share this pitch for toping out. Easy climbing.
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