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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 470 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gerald Laws, Buddy Price 1974
Page Views: 4,074 total, 61/month
Shared By: GWB on Jun 20, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

The name of this route really says it all. A rare beautiful crack that offers some exciting moves over gear. Don't worry though, there is still enough runout slab climbing to prevent you from thinking you are any where else.

Start at the base of the left leaning crack. Climb the crack for about 30 feet then step right onto waves in the rock. Clip 2 bolts on your way out right, then make a step over a bulge and gain ground to the belay. 5.9+, 90'

P2 Start up and head left, locate a bolt and keep moving until you hit a terrace. 5.9 120'

P3 Head up to the second terrace. Can't remember if there is a bolt or not. 5.8 100'

From the belay, continue up for another 160' or so until you are able to reach the trees.

Location

Scramble your way up and left from the base below the tree ledge. Up about 200 feet or so you'll find a few large flat boulders leaning against the rock allowing you to gain a crack.

Protection

Start out with finger to slightly larger gear in the crack. You may be able to find some small gear that'll hold in the flakes before the step above the bulge. Then it is bolt(s) to the top.

Photos

Emil Briggs
  5.9 PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.9 PG13
Gee Double do you mean the leftward extension? If you continue following the crack out left instead of heading up over the bulge to the first bolt the climb is called Last Dance 5.11c/X. Apr 4, 2017
What is the rightward 5.11 extension of Fantastic ? I can't remember the name but it was unusual and worth recording...

Emil, yea thanks ! Leftward...I on-sighted that in late 70's-early 80's Feb 10, 2017
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Spectacular and testy line at 5.9, and quite unique for Stone. This route feels a bit more demanding than other 5.9s in the park - while the feet are quite featured, they do feel polished and slick, especially compared to most Stone routes. The upper section demands attention and focus. Ultra Classic!

It's also worth noting P1 is probably longer than the 90' listed. I used every bit of a 70m to rap to the base from the P1 anchors. Knot your rope ends. Feb 7, 2017
Emil Briggs
  5.9 PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.9 PG13
Beautiful climb. The first pitch is my favorite at Stone. Well protected nearly vertical crack and face at the bottom. Top gets a little spicy with a slab finish over gear in a flake that flexes enough to get your attention. Sep 30, 2013
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Climbed this awesome route yesterday. It was great fun.

Be advised that there are currently two pairs of bolts (one old/manky, and one new/shiny, in each spot) at the P1 and P2 anchors, and the P2 anchor is located way left, at the right end of a huge sloping ledge system that arcs across the top of an equally huge overhung amphitheater below/left of the P1 belay. Don't be fooled by the topo in the NC Select guide, which makes this pitch look shorter and more verical than it really is.

Many thanks to all who contributed to the rebolting of this and so many other great routes at Stone! Dec 3, 2012