Type: Trad, Sport, 470 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Gerald Laws, Buddy Price 1974
Page Views: 4,850 total · 61/month
Shared By: GWB on Jun 20, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

The name of this route really says it all. A rare beautiful crack that offers some exciting moves over gear. Don't worry though, there is still enough runout slab climbing to prevent you from thinking you are any where else.

Start at the base of the left leaning crack. Climb the crack for about 30 feet then step right onto waves in the rock. Clip 2 bolts on your way out right, then make a step over a bulge and gain ground to the belay. 5.9+, 90'

P2 Start up and head left, locate a bolt and keep moving until you hit a terrace. 5.9 120'

P3 Head up to the second terrace. Can't remember if there is a bolt or not. 5.8 100'

From the belay, continue up for another 160' or so until you are able to reach the trees.

Location

Scramble your way up and left from the base below the tree ledge. Up about 200 feet or so you'll find a few large flat boulders leaning against the rock allowing you to gain a crack.

Protection

Start out with finger to slightly larger gear in the crack. You may be able to find some small gear that'll hold in the flakes before the step above the bulge. Then it is bolt(s) to the top.

Photos

Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Climbed this awesome route yesterday. It was great fun.

Be advised that there are currently two pairs of bolts (one old/manky, and one new/shiny, in each spot) at the P1 and P2 anchors, and the P2 anchor is located way left, at the right end of a huge sloping ledge system that arcs across the top of an equally huge overhung amphitheater below/left of the P1 belay. Don't be fooled by the topo in the NC Select guide, which makes this pitch look shorter and more verical than it really is.

Many thanks to all who contributed to the rebolting of this and so many other great routes at Stone! Dec 3, 2012
Emil Briggs
  5.9 PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.9 PG13
Beautiful climb. The first pitch is my favorite at Stone. Well protected nearly vertical crack and face at the bottom. Top gets a little spicy with a slab finish over gear in a flake that flexes enough to get your attention. Sep 30, 2013
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Spectacular and testy line at 5.9, and quite unique for Stone. This route feels a bit more demanding than other 5.9s in the park - while the feet are quite featured, they do feel polished and slick, especially compared to most Stone routes. The upper section demands attention and focus. Ultra Classic!

It's also worth noting P1 is probably longer than the 90' listed. I used every bit of a 70m to rap to the base from the P1 anchors. Knot your rope ends. Feb 7, 2017
What is the rightward 5.11 extension of Fantastic ? I can't remember the name but it was unusual and worth recording...

Emil, yea thanks ! Leftward...I on-sighted that in late 70's-early 80's Feb 10, 2017
Emil Briggs
  5.9 PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.9 PG13
Gee Double do you mean the leftward extension? If you continue following the crack out left instead of heading up over the bulge to the first bolt the climb is called Last Dance 5.11c/X. Apr 4, 2017