Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: George DeWolfe, Robin Wright, John Palmer - 1965
Page Views: 13,735 total · 82/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 16, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

Another Stone Mountain classic, No Alternative is a great place to get a taste of the infamous runout climbing here without feeling like you're gonna die! The first half of the climb is like Great Arch -- it'll take all the pro you care to place. The upper half is a different story: pure friction climbing with one bolt 75 feet above the belay; you might be able to get a small cam in under one or two thin overhangs. At 5.5, though, its easy friction and great exposure.

P1 -- follow a left-facing corner/flake to its end at a bolted belay, about 200' (some climbers break this into two pitches).

P2 -- go straight up the moderate face to a bolt (75') and continue another 75' to another bolted belay.

P3 -- continue up easier terrain (5.3, unprotected) to rap anchors below the trees at the summit.

Trivia: the original name of this route was Punt Flake.

Location

At the right end of the Tree Ledge, belay at the base of a ramp that slants up and right to where it intersects with a left-facing dihedral; if you're worried about rope length, you can scramble up the ramp to the corner and belay there for P1, anchoring at a tree. Rap down with double ropes or walk off using the summit trail.

Protection

Medium gear on P1; one quickdraw on P2. Bolted belays.

Photos