No Alternative
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 133 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | George DeWolfe, Robin Wright, John Palmer - 1965 |
Page Views: | 16,596 total · 79/month |
Shared By: | saxfiend on Nov 16, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Another Stone Mountain classic, No Alternative is a great place to get a taste of the infamous runout climbing here without feeling like you're gonna die! The first half of the climb is like Great Arch -- it'll take all the pro you care to place. The upper half is a different story: pure friction climbing with one bolt 75 feet above the belay; you might be able to get a small cam in under one or two thin overhangs. At 5.5, though, its easy friction and great exposure.
P1 -- follow a left-facing corner/flake to its end at a bolted belay, about 200' (some climbers break this into two pitches).
P2 -- go straight up the moderate face to a bolt (75') and continue another 75' to another bolted belay.
P3 -- continue up easier terrain (5.3, unprotected) to rap anchors below the trees at the summit.
Trivia: the original name of this route was Punt Flake.
P1 -- follow a left-facing corner/flake to its end at a bolted belay, about 200' (some climbers break this into two pitches).
P2 -- go straight up the moderate face to a bolt (75') and continue another 75' to another bolted belay.
P3 -- continue up easier terrain (5.3, unprotected) to rap anchors below the trees at the summit.
Trivia: the original name of this route was Punt Flake.
Location
At the right end of the Tree Ledge, belay at the base of a ramp that slants up and right to where it intersects with a left-facing dihedral; if you're worried about rope length, you can scramble up the ramp to the corner and belay there for P1, anchoring at a tree. Rap down with double ropes or walk off using the summit trail.
15 Comments