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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: George DeWolfe, Robin Wright, John Palmer - 1965
Page Views: 11,340 total, 85/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 16, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Another Stone Mountain classic, No Alternative is a great place to get a taste of the infamous runout climbing here without feeling like you're gonna die! The first half of the climb is like Great Arch -- it'll take all the pro you care to place. The upper half is a different story: pure friction climbing with one bolt 75 feet above the belay; you might be able to get a small cam in under one or two thin overhangs. At 5.5, though, its easy friction and great exposure.

P1 -- follow a left-facing corner/flake to its end at a bolted belay, about 200' (some climbers break this into two pitches).

P2 -- go straight up the moderate face to a bolt (75') and continue another 75' to another bolted belay.

P3 -- continue up easier terrain (5.3, unprotected) to rap anchors below the trees at the summit.

Trivia: the original name of this route was Punt Flake.

Location

At the right end of the Tree Ledge, belay at the base of a ramp that slants up and right to where it intersects with a left-facing dihedral; if you're worried about rope length, you can scramble up the ramp to the corner and belay there for P1, anchoring at a tree. Rap down with double ropes or walk off using the summit trail.

Protection

Medium gear on P1; one quickdraw on P2. Bolted belays.
Nate Thompson
Columbia, SC
 
Nate Thompson   Columbia, SC
 
P1 - Thorns are growing in the crack as of May 2016 so watch out for that. Great pro spots with absolutely bomber feet here and there along the way

P2 - Fun friction stuff, the 5.5 rating may be slightly sandbagged. It is a good intro to friction climbing though. There are a couple of good eyebrows to place in between the two bolts as well, so don't be too intimidated by this section. I used a small nut and a .3 or .4 cam in a couple of places.

P3 - Obviously very easy and no real need (or anywhere to place for that matter) pro up to the final anchors. Though I would suggest using the final belay station. Apr 29, 2016
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
 
If you want to lessen the runouts on pitch 2, bring a yellow C3 and a .75BD. You can plug the C3 in the first overlapping horizontal you approach about 25-30 feet off the belay, you just have to look a little, there is a small pocket that is a text-book yellow C3 placement, its bomber. You can plug the .75 about 15 feet below the anchors if your feeling a little iffy about the last couple moves to the anchors on that last runout, this placement is also text-book and bomber. Feb 18, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Why the name change from the original "Punt Flake" to "No Alternative?" Jan 31, 2013
Jason Blevins
Burlington, NC
 
Jason Blevins   Burlington, NC
 
If you stay on Route, on (P2) of No Alternative, there is no Protection till after you get past the only Bolt, between Belay Stations!!! There is Place to put in Small Cam's or Ball Nut's, after Bolt and just before the Belay Station at top of (P2)!!! It's alittle runout, but all there for you in footplacing! Apr 24, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Great Alternative if the Arch is crowded! Second pitch is comparable to Yardarm with less lengthy run outs between pro. Fun stuff all around!!! Second and third pitches are good for the beginning slabber! Oct 20, 2011
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.5 PG13
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.5 PG13
This was my second gear lead, after Dirty Crack. The first pitch was nice and easy and I placed tons of protection on it and felt like I was pulling a dead body the last 30 feet. The second pitch scared the bejesus out of me. It probably didn't help that it was July and my feet felt like they were melting off the rock, but that first (and only) bolt at 75 feet is crazy. I tried to place some gear in those horizontals mbuntaine mentioned, but watched as they slid down the rope. Then I got to the anchors and looked up and figured the next anchors weren't that far away and kept climbing. I was on a 70m rope, but still ran out about 10 feet away from the last anchors. I got taken off belay because I was so close, anchored, and then couldn't figure out what was going on down below because I was 260 feet above my belayer and couldn't see or hear her. She eventually climbed up to the rope, tied in and climbed up to me. Not good. Don't tie pitches together on this route. Aug 18, 2010
mbuntaine
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.5
mbuntaine   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.5
Having never climbed No Alternative, we were told to expect some serious runouts on P2 above the main crack/corner system. In reality there are 2-3 overhanging brows that will take a wide range of gear from micro-cams to #1 C4 cams. You are really never more than 25' out from your last piece if you bring a light rack. Not as scary as we were led to believe. Oct 26, 2009