Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,063 total · 54/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Like most of the approach climbs for the main South Face, Block Route is a fun and extended route worthy of climbing even if you're not just trying to get to the Tree Ledge. If you want to get a feel for what it's like to climb high above your last gear at Stone Mountain, this is a good place to start. Block Route actually has ample pro placements for good stretches, and the runout sections are easy climbing. The somwhat tenuous block move toward the top is probably the only reason the guidebook gives this a 5.8, and it's well protected.

If you want to do Block Route in two pitches, there are belay anchors halfway up. But unless you're using a 50-meter rope (not a great idea anyway), there's no reason not to combine pitches and save yourself some time.

Starting below the left end of the overlap that extends just below the Tree Ledge, follow a grassy vertical crack and other seams up to belay anchors at a small tree. Belay here, or clip the anchor for pro and continue up to a left-facing dihedral. At the end of the dihedral, make a big move up and right onto the block, then finish to the tree ledge on easier ground, ending at the base of the Great Arch.

A bit of history: Block Route was originally considered the first pitch of the Great Arch.

Location Suggest change

Block Route is the furthest left of the Tree Ledge approach routes, about 30' left of U Slot. Rap on two ropes or a single 70 meter rope (do not attempt single rope rap if rope is less than 70 meters); if these are busy, use one of the other bolted rap stations further down the Tree Ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Cams and nuts up to #3 camalot or equivalent. Bolted belay anchors halfway up; bolted belay anchors on tree ledge.