Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,748 total, 51/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


111 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Like most of the approach climbs for the main South Face, Block Route is a fun and extended route worthy of climbing even if you're not just trying to get to the Tree Ledge. If you want to get a feel for what it's like to climb high above your last gear at Stone Mountain, this is a good place to start. Block Route actually has ample pro placements for good stretches, and the runout sections are easy climbing. The somwhat tenuous block move toward the top is probably the only reason the guidebook gives this a 5.8, and it's well protected.

If you want to do Block Route in two pitches, there are belay anchors halfway up. But unless you're using a 50-meter rope (not a great idea anyway), there's no reason not to combine pitches and save yourself some time.

Starting below the left end of the overlap that extends just below the Tree Ledge, follow a grassy vertical crack and other seams up to belay anchors at a small tree. Belay here, or clip the anchor for pro and continue up to a left-facing dihedral. At the end of the dihedral, make a big move up and right onto the block, then finish to the tree ledge on easier ground, ending at the base of the Great Arch.

A bit of history: Block Route was originally considered the first pitch of the Great Arch.

Location

Block Route is the furthest left of the Tree Ledge approach routes, about 30' left of U Slot. Rap on two ropes from the U Slot anchors; if these are busy, use one of the other bolted rap stations further down the Tree Ledge.

Protection

Cams and nuts up to #3 camalot or equivalent. Bolted belay anchors halfway up; sling trees for an anchor at the top.
Will Maness
Raleigh, NC
  5.7+ PG13
Will Maness   Raleigh, NC
  5.7+ PG13
As long as it's dry, the runout from the anchors to the #3 slot is not spicy at all...and I've even done it when it's wet! Nov 11, 2017
travis dean  
 
Loved this route met jeff jenkins while at the base. I ran this one to the belay anchors clipped a draw ran to block stuck pro at bottom corner clipped and topped out was a great warmup route for the day. Jun 29, 2017
JRJones  
If you don't have the head or the gear to lead Entrance Crack, this is your route to the Tree Ledge. I led it this past weekend on passive gear and got great pro all the way with DMM wallnuts, DMM torque nuts, and tricams. Crux pro was a DMM wallnut #6 (red) high in the corner. Bomber. Throw the foot and trust it. my least favorite part is the runout from the bolts to the tree/shrub. The block move is basically on toprope with the high pro. Feb 20, 2017
Eric Chung
Rockland County, NY
  5.7 PG13
Eric Chung   Rockland County, NY
  5.7 PG13
Climbed this with my dad as a start to The Great Arch after debating between U-Slot and Entrance Crack as the easiest approach to reach tree ledge. Definitely easy for the grade as the crux move was easily protected with two bomber TCU placements and the runout section from the bolts to the tree was no harder than a Gunks 5.3-5.4. If you are just visiting the area for the first time like we were, I would recommend this route as the safest approach to tree ledge. Jun 12, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This is a great climb that gives you a little taste of Stone at the runout. The block move is...well, I hear there are a lot of ways to do it. I opted to go up to the dihedral to only place gear, then down-climbed to make the mantle onto a bigger foothold near the lip of the block. But I can see how you could also stem from the dihedral with the slightly better hand holds. Nov 9, 2015
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
  5.7 PG13
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
  5.7 PG13
Easy, very direct access to the tree ledge. Definitely a big runout between bolts and the C4 #3 slot, but no more than 5.5 or 5.6 slab. The pull over the block is balancy for sure, but just trust your smearing right foot and haul/mantle yourself over. Bomber offset nut placement before the crux move, which felt more like a 5.7 move on lead.

Double ropes needed for rappel from U-Slot anchors. Oct 8, 2015
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.7 PG13
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.7 PG13
I agree, it's an easy way to get to the tree ledge. Great way to warm up your Stone Mountain army-crawl technique that you'll be using the rest of the day. Nov 10, 2013
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
 
You can plug a "bomber" yellow or red C3 in the corner before you pull the crux (block) move. Extend it with a long runner and your essentially on top rope for the crux move. Feb 18, 2013
Will Wilson
Morganton, nc
  5.8 PG13
Will Wilson   Morganton, nc
  5.8 PG13
The first time you pull the block it feels scary as hell. i like putting a locker on my pro below it. Feb 11, 2013
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  5.8 PG13
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  5.8 PG13
Great route with varied climbing through crack, slab and the mentioned mantle/stem move. Must do as a Stone Mountain first timer, due to it's direct link to the base of the Great Arch! Three BOMBER pieces below the crux! Keep in mind that there is a ~35 foot run-out on easy ground between gear. Not recommended as a first lead, confidence on slab will make the run-out seem small. Aside from the crux, it's probably ~5.4 or less the whole way. Nov 7, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Its all been said, definitely the simplest way up to tree ledge as well as the best protected. However its still worth a go with the a crux move that leaves the first timer tickled. Oct 20, 2011
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
This is more fun, and more mellow than U slot by a long shot. It has a single 5.8 move, the rest is easy climbing. Apr 9, 2010
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
  5.6 PG13
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
  5.6 PG13
Fun for sure, but hardly 5.8. One move wonder at step across move. This move is well protected. Aug 2, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Fun route, easier and not as runout as U Slot to the right. Apr 4, 2007