All Locations > N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Stone Mountain > Stone Mtn S Face

Mcgrady's route

Name: Mcgrady's route
Rating: 2.5

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Amtrak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Back to School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Between The Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Brown Sugar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Mama's Goin' Crazy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Permission Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Rock Island Line (Grand Funk alt. finish), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA:	FA: Jeff White, Gary Slate FFA: Jeff White, Fred Bauer
Page Views:	1,875 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Emil Briggs on Dec 10, 2013
Admins:	Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

This route is also known as Happy Trails or Disco Dance of Death.

The climb starts from the same sloping ledge as the Discipline but about 15 feet to the right of it. The first pitch starts up a steep face. You can protect the opening with small stoppers or brass. Clip a bolt below a small roof. Pull the roof with a very un Stone like move and head up to another bolt. There are some small cam placements here and there as well. Make your way over the bulges to a belay ledge below the big roof where you will find a single bolt. You can back this up with a stopper as well.

This pitch is 5.9+ to 5.10a and is steep and fun. The second pitch involves pulling through the big roof band that is the most prominent feature on the left end of the South Face. There are some solid moves getting up to the roof that you can protect with a medium sized cam. Then clip the obvious bolt and try to pull the roof. My first hand knowledge ends at this point as I have never been able to do the move.

Location

Left end of south face. A bit of a bushwhack to get there as there is no obvious trail. From the Block Route area head left and up along the cliff face. Go past the large flakes leaning against the cliff until you come to an area with a sloping ledge below the big roof band. Look for bolts up on the face. The leftmost set of bolts is the Discipline while the rightmost set is McGrady's.

Protection

First pitch only: 2 protection bolts and 1 belay bolt. Bring a light rack with small to medium sized cams, some small stoppers or brass and a few larger stoppers for the first pitch belay.