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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 580 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Mike Fischesser, Will Soper, Charleen Stokes
Page Views: 1,614 total · 55/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 3, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Mike F. asked that this be added into the database here. However, having not climbed the route myself I'll have to defer the description to the topo.

Location

Starts on Entrance Crack and ends near the Pulpit.

Protection

See topo

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
Only did the first pitch. And alternative way to get up to the tree ledge. It needs some tender love and use, lots of little pieces breaking off. But it is fun, and in Stone tradition will make you feel a bit scared. Apr 2, 2016
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Jen Kane and I did it day after Thanksgiving. We enjoyed the heck out of this route ! Nov 30, 2015
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.8
I headed up to Stone today specifically to climb this route. There ended up being a group with topropes set up here and on Entrance Crack. Finally, at about 3:00 everyone cleared out and we were able to jump on it. The topo was quite accurate and made route finding easy.

The first pitch starts on the right side of Entrance Crack and veers off to the right at the large tree below the off-width. There are several nice holds that make the transition away from Entrance Crack fairly easy. Follow the line of three bolts up to a large pine that currently has webbing attached to it. This is not a difficult pitch but due to the low amount of traffic the rock is still exfoliating. I pulled off several crimps on the way up. Just be aware of this when leading.

The second pitch begins behind the pine tree and heads straight up to the corner on No Alternative. Follow the corner to the first tree and climb to the right, up over the corner and towards the first bolt. While not on the topo, there is a second bolt just above the first. The climbing through this section is probably the stiffest of the route depending on where you climb. From the second bolt, head up over easy rock to the belay rings. The topo shows opportunities for additional pro, I wouldn't bother. The climbing is too easy to need it and the placement is less than ideal.

The third pitch traverses over to the rings on Autumn Speaks. Clip one and head up to the corner on Autumn Speaks. Veer right and head up over the corner near the small tree and climb up the slab to the rings at a bowl.

For the fourth pitch, move right to the bolt on the water groove and straight up past another bolt to a set rings. This is a fairly easy pitch and since I was the only one climbing the last two pitches, I just clipped one of the anchors and continued on to the top. The last pitch continues up the water groove, is really easy and has no fixed pro. I didn't bother with any pro but there are opportunities. There are anchors at the top, just left of the water groove, to rappel back down from. I was a little disappointed to see the anchors on the left side of the water groove. This is one of the most dangerous spots on the mountain. The last two people that fell to their death did so by trying to cross the water that seeps from the tree island. I have been trying to get some anchors installed on the right side of the water streak so that anyone climbing routes that terminate on the right side of the mountain will not have to traverse across the water in order to find rings to rappel back down from.

Overall, this is a nice route with no really difficult climbing. Oct 11, 2015

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