Type: Trad, 580 ft (176 m), 5 pitches
FA: Mike Fischesser, Will Soper, Charleen Stokes
Page Views: 2,721 total · 45/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 3, 2015 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

I edited and changed Johnny O's excellent beta.

Pitch 1 - Start on the right side of Entrance Crack and veer off to the right at the large tree below the off-width. There are several nice holds that make the transition away from Entrance Crack fairly easy. Follow the line of three bolts up to a large pine. The rock is still exfoliating. 5.8

Pitch 2 - Head straight up to the corner on No Alternative. Follow the corner to the first tree and climb to the right, up over the corner and towards the first bolt. While not on the topo, there is a second bolt just above the first. The climbing through this section is probably the stiffest of the route depending on where you climb. From the second bolt, head up over easy rock to the belay rings. 5.8

Pitch 3 - Traverse over to the rings on Autumn Speaks. Clip one and head up to the corner on Autumn Speaks. Veer right and head up over the corner near the small tree and climb up the slab to the rings at a bowl. 5.7+

Pitch 4 - Move right to the bolt on the water groove and straight up past another bolt. From there the climbing gets easier and there's about 70' of unprotected climbing to the anchor. 5.8

Pitch 5 - Head straight up and protect on a couple of thread thru's. If you are topping out, belay off a tree on the tree ledge to ensure safety. 5.5

Location

Starts on Entrance Crack and ends near the Pulpit.

Protection

Single rack of cams from micros to 2" if you want to be thorough

Photos