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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Between The Ways S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Entrance Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Fantastic T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fleet Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great Brown Way T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Daze T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Paul Pelot - 1991
Page Views: 1,307 total, 10/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Maybe not the hardest, but likely the most sustained hard friction of the Tree Ledge approach routes; this one pretty much never lets up. One assumes the 5.8 rating in the "Selected Climbs" guidebook is a misprint.

Start at a short diagonal crack (or if you're up for it, make a direct start right of the crack). Follow the crack up and right, then straight up with delicate moves to the top. Can be toproped from the anchors with two ropes.

Location

Starts just left of the Entrance Crack, near the right end of the Tree Ledge.

Protection

Two bolts; ring anchors at the ledge.

Photos

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Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ R
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ R
I second Chris's comments. It's very sustained 5.8 or 8+, with a serious runout from the last bolt to the anchor. You can't even see the last bolt from the anchor. Good candidate for a running belay. Oct 20, 2014
csproul
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
I think 5.8 maybe 5.8+ is right on for this climb. It does not, however, really have a crux and never really lets up. Unlike many other Stone Mtn routes, it continues at the same difficulty whether by a bolt or far run-out, making it feel harder. From the last bolt to the anchors fells pretty far. Feb 27, 2012
Gear before the first bolt can require some gardening, depending on how much detritus has fallen into the crack. Good tri-cams posslble. Steep for the grade, sustained. Oct 29, 2011
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
I climbed with the FA party a couple times. He told me stories about this route and how he had to hand drill one of the bolts with a broken bit while standing there on the slab. He claimed that it was so stressful on his calves that he acquired a varicose vein in one leg from that ascent. Haven't seen Paul out in a long time. Nov 8, 2007