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Northern Gorge Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Northern Gorge

Adena Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Auxier Ridge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Bee Branch 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Blackburn Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Board Wall 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Buzzard's Roost (north gorge) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Camp Store Crag 1 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Chimney Top Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Clearcut Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Courthouse Rock 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

D_Boone Hut Crag 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Dip Wall 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Dome, The 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Doorish Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Dunkan Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Eagle Point Buttress 12 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge 11 / 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27

Fortress Wall 33 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 33

Funk Rock City 14 / 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30

Gray’s Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Half Moon Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Haystack Rock 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Hen's Nest 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Indian Creek 41 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 44

Jailhouse Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Jazz Rock 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Jewel Pinnacle 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Kentucky Wall, The 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20

Left Flank 3 / 19 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22

Long Wall 36 / 15 / 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 60

Lost Ridge 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Lower Sky Bridge Ridge 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Lower Small Wall 12 / 0 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Lumpy Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Mariba Fork 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Middle Small Wall 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Military Wall 14 / 32 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47

Minas Tirith 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Moonshiner's Wall 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Muscle Beach 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15

Pebble Beach 21 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28

Phantasia 11 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

Pinch Em Tight 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Pistol Ridge 25 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30

Princess Arch 8 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Purple Valley 11 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Raven Rock 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Rock Bridge Rd. 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Rough Trail 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Sassafras Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

See Rocks 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Spring Wall, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Staircase Wall 2 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Symphony Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3

Tarr Ridge 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Tower Rock 16 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Tunnel Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Wall of Denial 13 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

Western Sky Bridge Ridge 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Willie's Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Window Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	737 ft	225 m
GPS:	37.78418, -83.68236 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	663,214 total · 9,233/month
Shared By:	DrRockso RRG on Jan 10, 2020
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

This section includes all areas North of the Mountain Parkway which exist in the Daniel Boone National Forest and Clifty Wilderness areas. This area is considered by non climbers as the Red River Gorge proper.

Getting There

Take exit 33 for Slade and make a left off the exit, and another left at the Shell gas station. Make a right onto 77 towards 715 (AKA Sky Bridge Road/Scenic Loop)
Alternatively take Exit 40 for Pine Ridge, make a right at the exit and follow 715 for a mile until it makes another right hand turn, and enters the Daniel Boone National Forest.

642 Total Climbs

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Location:	Northern Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Northern Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R 301 ● Caver's Route Trad 4 pitches Tower Rock
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 606 ● Bedtime for Bonzo Trad 2 pitches Fortress Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 325 ● Party Time Trad 2 pitches Fortress Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 608 ● Autumn Trad Long Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 856 ● Pogue Ethics Sport Phantasia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 612 ● Rock Wars Trad Long Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 895 ● To Defy the Laws of Tradition Sport Left Flank
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 533 ● Creep Show Sport Phantasia
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 303 ● Super Dario Sport Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 782 ● Fuzzy Undercling Sport Military Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 318 ● King Me Sport Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 298 ● Eye of the Needle Sport Funk Rock City
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 455 ● Twinkie Sport Phantasia
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 247 ● Tissue Tiger Sport Military Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 275 ● Mercy, the Huff Sport Left Flank

● Caver's Route

Tower Rock

301

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad 4 pitches

● Bedtime for Bonzo

Fortress Wall

606

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches

● Party Time

Fortress Wall

325

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches

● Autumn

Long Wall

608

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Pogue Ethics

Phantasia

856

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport

● Rock Wars

Long Wall

612

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● To Defy the Laws of Tradition

Left Flank

895

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

● Creep Show

Phantasia

533

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

● Super Dario

Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

303

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● Fuzzy Undercling

Military Wall

782

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● King Me

Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge

318

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Eye of the Needle

Funk Rock City

298

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Twinkie

Phantasia

455

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Tissue Tiger

Military Wall

247

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● Mercy, the Huff

Left Flank

275

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

More Classic Climbs in Northern Gorge »

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remove old tat whenever possible - this was fro…

Stunning arete somewhere in the Lower Gorge

Northern Gorge Rock Climbing

Areas in Northern Gorge

Description

Getting There

642 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Classic Climbing Routes at Northern Gorge

Weather Averages

Add New Photo
Photos

2 Comments

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All Photos Within Northern Gorge

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Northern Gorge Rock Climbing

Areas in Northern Gorge

Description

Getting There

642 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Classic Climbing Routes at Northern Gorge

Weather Averages

Add New Photo Photos

2 Comments

Comment Type:

All Photos Within Northern Gorge

Join the Community! It's FREE

Add New Photo
Photos