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Northern Gorge Rock Climbing
Areas in Northern Gorge
Adena Wall
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Auxier Ridge
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Bee Branch
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Blackburn Rock
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Board Wall
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7
Buzzard's Roost (north gorge)
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Camp Store Crag
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Chimney Top Rock
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Clearcut Wall
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Courthouse Rock
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5
D_Boone Hut Crag
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Dip Wall
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18
Dome, The
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Doorish Wall
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Dunkan Rock
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Eagle Point Buttress
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Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
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27
Fortress Wall
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34
Funk Rock City
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30
Gray’s Wall
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Half Moon Rock
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Haystack Rock
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Hen's Nest
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10
Indian Creek
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44
Jailhouse Rock
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Jazz Rock
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Jewel Pinnacle
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Kentucky Wall, The
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20
Left Flank
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22
Long Wall
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60
Lost Ridge
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6
Lower Sky Bridge Ridge
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9
Lower Small Wall
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19
Lumpy Wall
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Mariba Fork
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Middle Small Wall
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7
Military Wall
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47
Minas Tirith
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Moonshiner's Wall
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6
Muscle Beach
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15
Pebble Beach
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28
Phantasia
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Pinch Em Tight
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Pistol Ridge
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Princess Arch
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Purple Valley
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Raven Rock
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Rock Bridge Rd.
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Rough Trail
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Sassafras Rock
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See Rocks
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Spring Wall, The
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Staircase Wall
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Symphony Wall
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Tarr Ridge
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Tower Rock
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Tunnel Wall
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Wall of Denial
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Western Sky Bridge Ridge
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Willie's Wall
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Window Wall
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Wolfpen
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 737 ft | 225 m |
| GPS: |
37.78418, -83.68236 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
| Page Views: | 666,787 total · 8,149/month | |
| Shared By: | DrRockso RRG on Jan 10, 2020 | |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This section includes all areas North of the Mountain Parkway which exist in the Daniel Boone National Forest and Clifty Wilderness areas. This area is considered by non climbers as the Red River Gorge proper.
Getting There
Take exit 33 for Slade and make a left off the exit, and another left at the Shell gas station. Make a right onto 77 towards 715 (AKA Sky Bridge Road/Scenic Loop)
Alternatively take Exit 40 for Pine Ridge, make a right at the exit and follow 715 for a mile until it makes another right hand turn, and enters the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Classic Climbing Routes at Northern Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Caver's Route | Tower Rock |
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad 4 pitches | |
| ● Bedtime for Bonzo | Fortress Wall |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches | |
| ● Party Time | Fortress Wall |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches | |
| ● Autumn | Long Wall |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● Pogue Ethics | Phantasia |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport | |
| ● Rock Wars | Long Wall |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● To Defy the Laws of Tradition | Left Flank |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | |
| ● Creep Show | Phantasia |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | |
| ● Super Dario | Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | |
| ● King Me | Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | |
| ● Eye of the Needle | Funk Rock City |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | |
| ● Fuzzy Undercling | Military Wall |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V4 6B Sport, Boulder | |
| ● Twinkie | Phantasia |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
| ● Tissue Tiger | Military Wall |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | |
| ● Mercy, the Huff | Left Flank |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport |
Weather Averages
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Prime Climbing Season
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within Northern Gorge
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