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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: B. Molzon, 1977
Page Views: 6,798 total, 50/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


153 Opinions

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Description

One of the nicest moderate trad routes in the Red, and it takes good gear if you have it. The first pitch takes a few larger cams (perhaps to 4") and the second pitch a standard light rack. Bolted belay/rap anchors make this climb a good first multi-pitch.

The ledge where the anchors are to end the first pitch is pretty small and can hold 4 people max.

Location

On the far right side of Fortress Wall, where it faces west you can walk right to a point where the first of two huge left-facing corners becomes visible. This is Party Time (5.7). Do not pass this and start up the second corner by mistake (Lost In Space, 5.10)

Protection

A few large cams for the leaning start, then head for the top on a standard rack. With a few longer slings, this could be done in a single pitch. But the bolted anchors make breaking it up quite easy.
Eric Mack
  5.8
Eric Mack  
  5.8
Agree with Russ! Except the length. Rapped with a 70m with a bit of slack on the deck. Oct 6, 2017
This is a fantastic climb. Link both pitches, and do two raps using a single 60m. An awesome moderate corner that offers enough challenge and thoughtfulness, without being sandbagged but also not a cakewalk. Unbelievable rock quality and aesthetic beauty in a quiet little private setting high up in a Kentucky river gorge. Perfect, really.
*PS. It's more like 160-170 feet, so bring plenty of gear if you do link both pitches. It takes a regular variety. The bottom takes a nice #4 to keep you off the ground. Oct 2, 2017
Marsh.king
Olney
  5.7
Marsh.king   Olney
  5.7
This route is my personal favorite at fortress wall. The first pitch doesn't get as much praise as it should but the second pitch is without a doubt five stars. The second pitch varies in size and even has a few offwidth moves halfway up. Better than bedtime for bonzo for sure. May 24, 2017
Eli Sorna
ohio
 
Eli Sorna   ohio
 
Just a great route done again this past weekend (Nov 5) takes gear very well anchors at first pitch (40-50') and at the top. Very wide view of the gorge and in my opinion the best Multipitch at this wall, better than Bonzo. Nov 7, 2016
Jordan K
Ohio
 
Jordan K   Ohio
 
Great climb! Both pitches just eat gear so easy to protect, but yes, so #3 and even #3.5 or #4 Camelots are nice to have along (for both pitches). Second pitch is definitely the money pitch, but both are fun. Gorgeous view up top! Great intro to multi-pitch.

Nice new anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch, but the anchors for the first pitch have seen better days. The chains are showing very significant notches on the bolt hanger end. Mar 3, 2014
skiny  
Love this climb!!! Haven't been to Red River in decades (living in Utah now). Read the comment about the second pitch and was left scratching my head...but then knocked some cob webs out and remembered faintly that this was originally listed as having 3 pitches, the 3rd a worthless 15 feet to the top. We always run pitches 1 & 2 as one long pitch, though it's wise for the last one down to rap it in two pitches for the sake of rope retrieval. I had the good fortune of loosing the race with a setting sun during a full moon. The whole face was covered in moon light. It was incredible!!!!! Back in the day of hexes, this climb was rated 5.6. Sep 30, 2010
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
The first pitch is nothing to go out of your way for, but the second pitch is excellent! Nov 6, 2007