Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Fortress Wall

After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Molzon and Dick Shori 1977
Page Views: 2,748 total · 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 27, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


101 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

There are two options for the start... The normal way is to scramble up to the crack from the right using an easy ramp to the right of the tree... I enjoyed a direct start a few feet to the left of the tree... The direct start was a little harder than 5.7 and had PG13 protection but i thought it was really fun... Once you get to the crack you just jam and layback your way to the top passing an interesting move to the left... Pull through the steep bulge at the top and stand on the ledge...

To belay your second walk to the back of the ledge and build an anchor in a corner, or find another option if you can... When you are done you can rap off of the anchors of Blue Runner just to the left as long as no one is on it (but it is a popular route so you might have to search for another option)... This last paragraph is why this route isn't as popular as some others... All the other routes in the area have bolt anchors...

Location

Just right of Blue runner stand by a large tree and next to the rock and look up... You will see a nice flake/crack leading to a steep finish.... Thats your route...

Protection

Regular rack will get you to the ledge comfortably... one of the big downers of this route is the lack of bolted anchor and no convenient option... The best belay i could find was in a corner at the back of the ledge to the left in a corner...

Photos

Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
This route now has bolts and rings at the top. When you top out the bulge, they'll be on your left. May 18, 2011
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
I onsighted this climb, so perhaps I missed some otherwise obvious placements, but I took the scramble up from the right start variation, and found my first piece being a .4 inch cam that I was placing blindly as I leaned left out over a 20 foot drop with my right hand crimping a tiny hold. The climb was super quality though. Really fun flake and features higher up. Mar 19, 2012
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
Awesome climb, but I was pretty pumped. I thought bit harder than 5.7 Jun 16, 2014
Fun route. Not sure what direct start the description is talking about, but there's a ~5.10c face climb you can do on top rope (no protection that I saw).

PS: Don't be intimidated by Drake's comment. He definitely missed something (I'd argue more than 1 somethings) Jul 18, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This is a really fun route. If you get nervous starting the climb off the 20 foot ledge, put some gear in on the wall before the flake and sling it really long. The right scramble up to the ledge is pretty easy on solid feet, probably 5.3 or so. Oct 13, 2016
George Summer
Baltimore, MD
George Summer   Baltimore, MD
FYI - Right bolt is moving/wiggling about 2 - 4 mm. Apr 17, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8-
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8-
I went straight up the face from the start (direct start) as opposed to the blocky thing to the right. Some nice horizontals for gear but the first placement worth anything is up there a bit so PG/PG13 is warranted if going that way. This variation seemed 5.7+/5.8-. Nov 27, 2017
Nick Tripp  
 
Sweet exposure for only being a 5.7! Even better with the mid-summer heat and humidity making sure my sweaty mitts grease up the layback flake for my own feet and everyone else!

Doing the direct face start *definitely* felt closer to 5.10 - the 5.7 pops through the slot at the top of the ramp around the right side. Jul 16, 2018

More About Calypso I

Printer-Friendly