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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Molzon, Ray Rishel 1977
Page Views: 1,450 total, 16/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This is the next dihedral right of American Crack. It is a good alternative if AC is stacked with people waiting. Stem up the dihedral to a cruxy move below a great ledge. Continue up the steeper, but easier dihedral to bolt anchors on the left.

Location

This route is the obvious dihedral right of American Crack and left of Bombs Bursting. It can be damp, especially the start. Rappel from bolts.

Protection

An assortment. The crack is irregular in places, so it can be done on passive pro and/or cams. There are bolts just below the ledge and this can fairly easily and somewhat safely be top roped after gaining the main ledge.

Photos

Jesse Via
Oxford, Ohio
 
Jesse Via   Oxford, Ohio
 
Much nicer than it looks from the ground, definitely deserves more attention Sep 4, 2017
Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
I thoroughly enjoyed this one. The very start is the crux for me, but it can be well protected (if you're tall you can get a good #3 to protect the first tricky moves before you even start really climbing).

Above the first ledge it's a pretty straight forward dihedral. Great pro the whole way, bring a set of nuts and standard rack of cams Mar 24, 2015