Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 899 ft 274 m
GPS: 37.5794, -85.07808
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,983,822 total · 28,635/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Oct 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

Description Suggest change

Sandstone...

From a climbing standpoint, you can define the Bluegrass state with that one word.

From Morehead, through the Red River Gorge and the Rockcastle River watershed on down into Tennessee via the Big South Fork (of the Cumberland River) out to the coalfields of Western Kentucky, the dominant exposed rock is sandstone.

By far, the best quality rock overall is in the Red River Gorge. That's not to say that the rest of the state is choss, just that the greatest concentration of quality developed climbing happens to be there.

If you're not climbing sandstone in Kentucky you need your head examined. There really isn't anything else to climb except some unconsolidated limestone. The geology of Kentucky could almost be called boring. But it really isn't.

The Eastern end of the state is all Cumberland Plateau. What most people, locals and visitors alike, call "mountains" are actually the topmost edge of a vast plateau. The exposed cliffs and valleys are a result of aeons of erosion down into that plateau. If you don't believe me look at the horizons. Flat. There are no peaks, no high chains of summits dividing the landscape. Oh, there's local relief, but the scale is small.

The scenery is distinctly different from that of the Blue Ridge, the Smokies and other chains along the Appalachians. Different in relief, but similar in ecology and climate.

Western Kentucky is unique in it's own way. It's the same general type of rock, but different consistencies and arrangements.

Getting There Suggest change

Most climbing in the state is easily accessible from major highways. I-75 funnels most visitors to the Mountain Parkway and then on to the Red River Gorge.

The Big South Fork is a little further off 75 and parallels it at a distance.

Western Kentucky access varies, but doesn't suffer as much from the crazy gravel backroads of the Eastern end of the state.

4,908 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Kentucky Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Kentucky

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 924
● Eureka
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 555
● Roadside Attraction
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 627
● Rock Wars
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1,724
● A Brief History of Climb
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1,176
● Breakfast Burrito
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1,005
● Whip-Stocking
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1,391
● Air Ride Equipped
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 734
● Bathtub Mary
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 782
● Amarillo Sunset
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 917
● Banshee
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 508
● Witness the Citrus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 640
● Ro Shampo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 534
● Check Your Grip
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 488
● Twinkie
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 519
● Super Best Friends
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Eureka Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Global Village
 924
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Roadside Attraction Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Graining Fork Nature…
 555
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
● Rock Wars Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Long Wall
 627
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● A Brief History of Climb Red River Gorge > … > Sore Heel Hollow > Gallery
 1,724
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Breakfast Burrito Red River Gorge > … > Drive-Bob Parking > Drive-By Crag
 1,176
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Whip-Stocking Red River Gorge > … > Drive-Bob Parking > Drive-By Crag
 1,005
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Air Ride Equipped Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Solarium
 1,391
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Bathtub Mary Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Arsenal
 734
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Amarillo Sunset Red River Gorge > … > Sore Heel Hollow > N 40
 782
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Banshee Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Solarium
 917
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Witness the Citrus Red River Gorge > (MFRP) Miller F… > Fruit Wall
 508
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Ro Shampo Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Graining Fork Nature…
 640
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Check Your Grip Red River Gorge > … > Drive-Bob Parking > Drive-By Crag
 534
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Twinkie Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Phantasia
 488
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Super Best Friends Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Solarium
 519
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Kentucky »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading