Elevation: 764 ft
GPS: 37.63903, -83.6766
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Matt Looby on Mar 23, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Billy Simek

Description

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) was acquired in 2013 by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition with assistance from the Access Fund's Land Conservation Campaign. As of 2022, this 309 acre area has nearly 30 crags and over 500 routes.

The parking lot can fill up on popular days. Please be considerate and park close to the car next to you. 

Getting There

A 4WD / high-clearance vehicle is recommended for access to Miller Fork. There are frequent posts requesting condition reports for the hill / road leading to the Miller Fork parking lot. Despite maintenance efforts by the RRGCC, the answer is often that the road is not in good condition. 

Heading south on KY11 from Miguel's (or the Mountain Parkway), drive just past Koop's gas station (now a Marathon gas station) and hang a left onto Shumaker Ridge Rd. Follow Shumaker for 3.2 miles until you see two entrances on the right - turn onto the second one which is Hell Creek Rd. There should be a wooden sign that says "MFRP" marking this road. Go down Hell Creek Rd, turning right after 0.8 miles at the bottom of a steep hill, just before the road meets the river for the first time. Drive parallel to the river for 1.2 miles until you see a large gravel parking lot on your left with a kiosk (just before the road crosses the river again). Park here - all area approaches begin from this parking lot. The parking lot GPS coordinates are 37.642204, -83.678900. There is a pit toilet in the parking lot. 

Click here for the Google Maps location of the MFRP parking lot. 

There is an alternative driving approach that requires driving across a river. Use caution as the water level can be high at times; a high-clearance vehicle is recommended. Sometimes the road on this approach is in better shape than the hill on the standard approach described above. Heading south on KY11 from Miguel's (or the Mountain Parkway), drive past Koop's gas station (now a Marathon gas station), drive past KY498 (the road to the PMRP / Motherlode), and drive past the Lee County Recreation Center. Drive approximately 1.4 miles past the Rec Center and turn left onto 3 Mile Branch Rd. There is no street sign for this road but there is a large sign on the right side of KY11 for the Lee County Saddle Club; there is also a small sign on the left side of KY11 for the Daniel Boone Backcountry Byway (DBBB). 3 Mile Branch Rd will quickly come to a T - turn left onto Old State Hwy 11 and then make a quick right onto Tip Top Rd (note that Google Maps lists this as Holly Rd). After 0.1 miles, bear left at the Y intersection. After 0.5 miles, bear left again at the next Y intersection. After 0.1 miles, turn left onto Hell Creek Rd which is a gravel road that heads downhill. There is a wooden signpost / kiosk here for the DBBB. Follow the gravel road for 0.8 miles, crossing 2 creeks, and turn left at a Y intersection where the right branch heads sharply uphill. This is now joined up with the normal approach described above. Drive parallel to the river for 1.2 miles until you see a large gravel parking lot on your left with a kiosk (just before the road crosses the river again). 

Click here for Google Maps directions for this alternate approach from Miguel's. 

Here is a trails map from RRGCC showing the approaches to each crag.

Guidebook

There are currently 3 guidebooks that cover routes in Miller Fork.

THE RED 2nd Edition (2022) Brendan Leader. $35.00 ISBN:9780645299915

Covers all sport climbing crags in the Red along with trad climbs within those sport climbing areas. This is currently the most up to date book.

Red River Gorge Select – Guide to the best crags in the North, South, and Miller Fork  (2018 Edition)  Dario Ventura, Mike Williams $39 ISBN:1938393325

Covers a large selection of the most popular sport and trad crags throughout the gorge.

Best of the Red – Sport Climbing Crags of the Red River Gorge (2017 Edition)  Brendan Leader. $20.00 ISBN:9780994278456

Covers a huge selection of the best sport crags in the north, south and Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP).

Miller Fork Climbing (2015 Edition) Ray Ellington. No longer sold (was $39.95). ISBN:9780692471128

This was the original guidebook for Miller Fork when it first opened. This book is no longer sold but is listed here for historical information. 

Waiver and Rules

The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at MFRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at MFRP.

* As of June 2018, there is no overnight parking allowed on any Coalition properties (PMRP, BRRP, MFRP). Primitive camping is still allowed,
  just as long as you do not park a car there (i.e. dropped off or hike in).
* Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil workers’ trucks.
* Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
* All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
* Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
* Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
* No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is permitted.
* No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
* No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of
  numerous oil wells would pose.

529 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 290
Little Wing
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 332
Jew Jew Fruit
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 128
Tesseract
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 132
Holy Grail
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 122
Sloppy Seconds
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 114
Linear Regression
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 90
Sundial
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
Hammer Time
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 109
Magic Bed
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 324
Witness the Citrus
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 89
Brachial Plexus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 80
Plague Doctor
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 72
Banana Hammock
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 131
Last Rites
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 83
Singularity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Wing Secret Garden
 290
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jew Jew Fruit Fruit Wall
 332
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Tesseract Portal
 128
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Holy Grail Camelot
 132
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sloppy Seconds Secret Garden
 122
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Linear Regression Secret Garden
 114
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sundial Serenity Point
 90
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hammer Time Serenity Point
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Magic Bed Infirmary
 109
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Witness the Citrus Fruit Wall
 324
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Brachial Plexus Infirmary
 89
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Plague Doctor Infirmary
 80
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Banana Hammock Fruit Wall
 72
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Last Rites Infirmary
 131
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Singularity Portal
 83
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) »

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