Elevation: 763 ft
GPS: 37.639, -83.677 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 330,933 total · 5,121/month
Shared By: Matt Looby on Mar 23, 2015
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) was acquired in 2012 by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition with assistance from the Access Fund's Land Conservation Campaign. As of early 2015, this 309 acre area has over 20 established crags and several hundred routes, with potential for many more.

Getting There

Heading south on KY11 from Miguel's (or the Mountain Parkway), drive just past Koop's gas station and hang a left onto Shumaker Ridge Rd. Follow Shumaker for 3.2 miles until you see two entrances on the right - turn onto the second one which is Hell Creek Rd. There should be a wooden sign that says "MFRP" marking this road. Go down Hell Creek Rd, bearing right just before it meets the river for the first time. Drive parallel to the river for a little while until you see a large gravel parking lot on your left with a kiosk (just before the road crosses the river again). Park here - all area approaches begin from this parking lot. The parking lot GPS coordinates are 37.642204, -83.678900.

Google Maps directions from Miguel's to MFRP parking lot: goo.gl/maps/9KQWi

And a trails map showing the approaches to the various walls.

The guidebook can be purchased online or at Miguel's as well.

Guidebook

The MFRP is a newer area not documented in any previous RRG guidebooks. However, Ray Ellington released the new MFRP guidebook on October 7, 2015, just in time for Rocktoberfest. A PDF sample of the book is available online.

Waiver and Rules

The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at MFRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at MFRP.

* As of June 2018, there is no overnight parking allowed on any Coalition properties (PMRP, BRRP, MFRP). Primitive camping is still allowed,
  just as long as you do not park a car there (i.e. dropped off or hike in).
* Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil workers’ trucks.
* Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
* All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
* Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
* Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
* No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is permitted.
* No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
* No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of
  numerous oil wells would pose.

378 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 180
Little Wing
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 94
Hippie Lip Balm
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 101
Lithuanian Princess
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 216
Jew Jew Fruit
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 71
Road Kill
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 74
Tesseract
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 65
Holy Grail
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 69
Porphyria
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
Sloppy Seconds
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
Linear Regression
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
Sundial
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 190
Witness the Citrus
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 58
Brachial Plexus
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 59
Last Rites
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 43
Singularity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Wing Secret Garden
 180
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hippie Lip Balm Secret Garden
 94
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lithuanian Princess Chaos
 101
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jew Jew Fruit Fruit Wall
 216
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Road Kill Coopers Cove
 71
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tesseract Portal
 74
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Holy Grail Camelot
 65
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Porphyria Infirmary
 69
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sloppy Seconds Secret Garden
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Linear Regression Secret Garden
 67
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sundial Serenity Point
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Witness the Citrus Fruit Wall
 190
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Brachial Plexus Infirmary
 58
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Last Rites Infirmary
 59
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Singularity Portal
 43
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) »

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