Elevation: 811 ft
GPS: 37.642, -83.679 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 192,432 total · 3,865/month
Shared By: Matt Looby on Mar 23, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

Description

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) was acquired in 2012 by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition with assistance from the Access Fund's Land Conservation Campaign. As of early 2015, this 309 acre area has over 20 established crags and several hundred routes, with potential for many more.

Getting There

Heading south on KY11 from Miguel's (or the Mountain Parkway), drive just past Koop's gas station and hang a left onto Shumaker Ridge Rd. Follow Shumaker for 3.2 miles until you see two entrances on the right - turn onto the second one which is Hell Creek Rd. There should be a wooden sign that says "MFRP" marking this road. Go down Hell Creek Rd, bearing right just before it meets the river for the first time. Drive parallel to the river for a little while until you see a large gravel parking lot on your left with a kiosk (just before the road crosses the river again). Park here - all area approaches begin from this parking lot. The parking lot GPS coordinates are 37.642204, -83.678900.

Google Maps directions from Miguel's to MFRP parking lot: goo.gl/maps/9KQWi

And a trails map showing the approaches to the various walls.

The guidebook can be purchased online or at Miguel's as well.

Guidebook

The MFRP is a newer area not documented in any previous RRG guidebooks. However, Ray Ellington released the new MFRP guidebook on October 7, 2015, just in time for Rocktoberfest. A PDF sample of the book is available online.

Waiver and Rules

The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at MFRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at MFRP.

  • Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil 
workers’ trucks.
  • Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” 
practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
  • All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
  • Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project 
ropes, draws, or other gear.
  • Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to  the establishment of any new crags or trails.
  • No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is 
permitted.
  • No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is 
permitted.
  • No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in 
the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of 
numerous oil wells would pose.
  • Overnight camping (no long­term camping) is permitted as long 
as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil 
equipment. 

346 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 131
Little Wing
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Hippie Lip Balm
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Lithuanian Princess
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 165
Jew Jew Fruit
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
Road Kill
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 53
Tesseract
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
Porphyria
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
Sloppy Seconds
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
Linear Regression
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Sundial
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 37
Hammer Time
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 152
Witness the Citrus
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 41
Brachial Plexus
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 44
Last Rites
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 29
Singularity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Wing Secret Garden
 131
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hippie Lip Balm Secret Garden
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lithuanian Princess Chaos
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jew Jew Fruit Fruit Wall
 165
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Road Kill Coopers Cove
 55
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tesseract Portal
 53
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Porphyria Infirmary
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sloppy Seconds Secret Garden
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Linear Regression Secret Garden
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sundial Serenity Point
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hammer Time Serenity Point
 37
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Witness the Citrus Fruit Wall
 152
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Brachial Plexus Infirmary
 41
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Last Rites Infirmary
 44
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Singularity Portal
 29
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) »

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Photos

Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
A more up to date map of the trails can be found here:

rrgcc.org/rrg-info/mfrp/MFR… Oct 5, 2016
Cole T
Cincinnati, OH
Cole T   Cincinnati, OH
Just a heads up to folks, the road back here is starting to get bad. Was a bit of a mud bog in one spot Apr 9, 2018
Riley C  
To follow up on Cole's comment, the road was impassable in a sedan as of today. Jan 28, 2019
Misha S  
I was there this past weekend March 3rd 2019, and the hill of the mud road down bent the rim of my Toyota highlander; the hill is in bad shape. Mar 4, 2019 · Temporary Report
Jackson Wright
Milledgeville, GA
Jackson Wright   Milledgeville, GA
Was there a couple days ago. Let's talk about the road. It's definitely rough and could use maintenance, but assuming it's not raining or raining the days before, it's relatively okay. There was a toyota corolla in the lot, and a big shuttle bus, E350 chassis, probably 22 feet long. Just go slow on the road and you should be okay. If you have decent clearance and 4x4: you are way way way more capable. Just be wise and you'll be fine. Mar 22, 2019