Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Dario Ventura
Page Views: 5,643 total · 123/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 19, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


141 Opinions

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Description

This route is up there with the best 5.11s I've ever climbed. Long, enduro climbing on jugs with a cruxy roof down low make this one not to be missed in MFRP. Climb up smooth rock between ledges and good flakes to the big roof. Consider back-cleaning the first two or three quickdraws after you clipped above each one to make cleaning the route easier.
Pull the roof and enjoy straight-forward jug hauling forever. Or about 70 feet to be more precise. Super, super fun and worth the hike to the wall just for this route alone.

Location

Towards the center of the main wall. The route is two routes left of the obvious right-trending, long “Hourglass Crack” trad route.

Protection

10 bolts to chain anchors with biners. Three of the bolts have fixed cable/chain draws to facilitate cleaning. Definitely use these as the route is steep and the big roof low on the route makes cleaning difficult.

NOTE: 60m rope mandatory. Tie knot in the end of your rope.

Photos

Jessi H
  5.11c
Jessi H  
  5.11c
Absolutely fantastic. Best 11c I've been on in the red. Awesome, flowy movement on huge jugs that just go on forever. Oct 31, 2016
Ben Pannell
Arvada, CO
  5.11c
Ben Pannell   Arvada, CO
  5.11c
60m rope is just enough for this route. Finished with ~1 meter to spare. Be sure to knot your ends, just in case. Apr 3, 2017
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
 
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
 
mega! steep 11+ climbing. build yo fitness on this! Nov 3, 2017
Brad Leneis
  5.11c
Brad Leneis  
  5.11c
Until you climb it, it's impossible to believe this route exists. Apr 2, 2018
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The Return of Chris Snyder of 11c. Sick. May 13, 2018
Colin Brochard   Austin
The roof was pretty sweet, then a whole load of jug hauling to the anchors. Would recommend the victory whip from the chains 10/10 Sep 6, 2018