Type: Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: Dario Ventura 2011
Page Views: 16,369 total · 148/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 19, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route

385 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This route is up there with the best 5.11s I've ever climbed. Long, enduro climbing on jugs with a cruxy roof down low make this one not to be missed in MFRP. Climb up smooth rock between ledges and good flakes to the big roof. Consider back-cleaning the first two or three quickdraws after you clipped above each one to make cleaning the route easier.
Pull the roof and enjoy straight-forward jug hauling forever. Or about 70 feet to be more precise. Super, super fun and worth the hike to the wall just for this route alone.

Location Suggest change

Towards the center of the main wall. The route is two routes left of the obvious right-trending, long "Hourglass Crack" trad route.

Protection Suggest change

10 bolts to chain anchors with biners. Three of the bolts have fixed cable/chain draws to facilitate cleaning. Definitely use these as the route is steep and the big roof low on the route makes cleaning difficult.

NOTE: 60m rope mandatory. Tie knot in the end of your rope.