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Areas in Red River Gorge

Amusement Park, The 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) 11 / 134 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 146
Bee Branch 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Beer Trailer Crag 2 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Blackburn Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Camp Store Crag 0 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cathedral Domain Rock Domain Climbing Area 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Chimney Top Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Clearcut Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Courthouse Rock 3 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Dip Wall 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Dunkan Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Eagle Point Buttress 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge 7 / 13 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Emerald City 5 / 9 / 1 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Fortress Wall 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 24
Friction Slab 1 / 0 / 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Funk Rock City 10 / 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Global Village 6 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag) 15 / 32 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Gun Crag 2 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Half Moon Rock 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Haystack Rock 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Heights, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hen's Nest Rock 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Indian Creek 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Jazz Rock 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Jewel Pinnacle 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Kentucky Wall, The 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Left Flank 2 / 19 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Long Wall 22 / 13 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
Lost Ridge 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lower Sky Bridge Ridge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lower Small Wall 10 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Lumpy Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Mariba Fork 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Middle Small Wall 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Military Wall 9 / 28 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38
Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) 46 / 258 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 304
Minas Tirith 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Moonshiner's Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mt. Olive Rock 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Muir Valley 80 / 277 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 356
Muscle Beach 14 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Pebble Beach 16 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) 59 / 336 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 398
Phantasia 10 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Pinch Em Tight 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pistol Ridge 16 / 5 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Purple Valley 11 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Raven Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
See Rocks 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Shallow Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Staircase Wall 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Symphony Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3
Torrent Falls 2 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Tower Rock 10 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Tunnel Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Wall of Denial 10 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Western Sky Bridge Ridge 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Whittleton Branch 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Willie's Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Zoo, The 2 / 40 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42

Description

With its central location in Kentucky and its huge volume of routes, the Red River Gorge is one of the most popular climbing meccas east of the Mississippi. Spread out through a wide expanse of national forest land and privately-owned acreage, the Red's sandstone cliffs offer a lifetime of climbing opportunities at all levels.

As with many remote areas, climbing has been going on in the Red River Gorge since before people bothered to record any of their exploits. Proto-climbers were probably scrambling up Chimney Top Rock and the Caver's Route at Tower Rock in the 50s and 60s. The 70s saw some of the earliest documented route development by climbers like Tom and Ellen Seibert, Larry Day and Frank Becker, who also produced the area's first published guidebook. Other early pioneers included Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, John Bronaugh and Martin Hackworth.

While the 70s and 80s saw increasing climber traffic, it was in the early 90s that a revolution of sorts hit the Red. Sport climbing took off in a big way with the arrival of Porter Jarrard, who began bolting overhanging walls that had previously been regarded as unclimbable. Other route developers followed suit, including Jeff Moll, Chris Snyder and Charles Tabor, among others.

As climbing grew, so did the potential for access issues, with strained relationships between climbers and the forest service or the oil companies that have drilling rights in the southern sections of the gorge. In large part as a response to new forest service land management plans, the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition was formed. The efforts of this grassroots organization have been highly fruitful, most notably with the purchase in 2004 of the huge Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) and the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) purchased in 2012.

When people think of climbing in the Red, sport is probably the first thing that comes to mind. Crags like the Motherlode and the Dark Side are known for their ferocious bolted lines. World-class sport leaders gravitate to the Red to try their hand at testpieces like Thanatopsis (5.14b) or The Legend (5.13b). But hard overhanging sport lines are not all there is; Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag) and many of Muir Valley's crags have a plentiful assortment of routes for the 5.11-and-under leader.

Though it's best known as a sport destination, the Red actually has almost as many trad lines to be led. Fortress Wall, Pebble Beach and Tower Rock are primarily trad destinations, while others like Roadside have a mix of trad and sport. Some classic gear lines include Roadside Attraction (5.7), Bedtime for Bonzo (5.6) and Rock Wars (5.10a). As with sport, there’s something for trad leaders at all levels, though be warned -- the grades on many trad lines are "old school."

No discussion of Red River Gorge would be complete without mentioning Miguel's Pizza. Founded in the mid-80s by Miguel Ventura, Miguel's isn’t just a restaurant, it's the epicenter of climbing culture for the Red. When locals give you directions to a crag, chances are they'll be telling you how to get there from Miguel's. Many climbers take advantage of the cheap camping on Miguel's grounds, and after a day of climbing, the restaurant is usually packed with climbers enjoying great pizza and other nourishments. Miguel's also serves as a climbers' store, carrying a wide selection of ropes, shoes, harnesses and other gear.

As noted above, climbing in the Red River Gorge is spread out over a large geographical area. For purposes of organization on Mountain Project, most crags are listed here on the main page. The three exceptions to this are the large privately-owned areas, Muir Valley, Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) and Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP); crags in these areas are listed in their respective subdivisions.

The prime seasons for climbing at the Red are spring and fall. High humidity and temperatures make for miserable rock conditions in the summertime, but that doesn't stop some climbers. Winter, aside from being frigid, has the added disadvantage of Miguel's being closed for the off-season.

Getting There

From Lexington, Kentucky take I-64 east about 15 miles to the exit for the Bert T. Combs Mountain Parkway, just past the second Winchester exit. Follow the parkway for 33 miles to the KY 11 exit (exit 33). Miguel's Pizza, the unofficial headquarters for climbing at the Red, is about two miles south on KY 11. Continue south for crags in the southern region, or north on KY 11 for northern region crags.

Guidebooks

There are currently four excellent guidebooks available for the Red River Gorge, each covering different crags and regions of this enormous climbing destination:

Best of the Red – Sport Climbing Crags of the Red River Gorge (2017 Edition) by Brendan Leader. $30.00 ISBN:9780994278456
Covers a huge selection of the best crags in the north, south and Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP).

Red River Gorge North – Volume 1 (2015 5th Edition) by Ray Ellington and Dustin Stephens. $28.00 ISBN:1938393201
Covers the crags north of the Mountain Parkway.

Red River Gorge South – Volume 2 (2017 5th Edition) by Ray Ellington and Blake Bowling. $33.00 ISBN:1938393279
Covers the crags south of the Mountain Parkway excluding Miller Fork.

Miller Fork Climbing (2015 Edition) by Ray Ellington. $39.95 ISBN:9780692471128
Covers Miller Fork though due to being published when the MFRP first opened, this edition is not particularly up to date.

1,861 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 290
Roadside Attraction
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 104
Crack Attack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 311
Rock Wars
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 420
Breakfast Burrito
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 103
King Me
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 305
Amarillo Sunset
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 118
No Place Like Home
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 244
Banshee
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 123
Witness the Citrus
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 108
The Return of Chris Snyder
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 310
Ro Shampo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 174
Check Your Grip
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 191
Twinkie
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 102
Mercy the Huff
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 82
Cell Block Six
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Roadside Attraction Graining Fork Nature…
 290
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Crack Attack Indian Creek
 104
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Rock Wars Long Wall
 311
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Breakfast Burrito Pendergrass-Mur… > Drive-By Crag
 420
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
King Me Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
 103
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Amarillo Sunset Pendergrass-Mur… > N 40
 305
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
No Place Like Home Emerald City
 118
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Banshee Muir Valley > Solarium
 244
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Witness the Citrus Miller Fork Rec… > Fruit Wall
 123
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Return of Chris Snyder Graining Fork Nature…
 108
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ro Shampo Graining Fork Nature…
 310
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Check Your Grip Pendergrass-Mur… > Drive-By Crag
 174
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Twinkie Phantasia
 191
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mercy the Huff Left Flank
 102
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cell Block Six Muir Valley > Midnight Surf
 82
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Red River Gorge »

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Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
For directions to individual areas and climbs there is a great online guide at: redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui… or an excellent printed guide written by Ray Ellington called "The Red River Gorge." Sep 29, 2006
Ladd    
Red River Outdoors burnt down on Tuesday April 24th, 2007. Please everyone send your best thoughts their way. The owners and employees are all unhurt, however, they did lose their dog. Please note this if you are heading to the Red. Apr 25, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
I second Chris Chaney's endorsement of redriverclimbing.com/.
Pretty amazing route database! Dec 10, 2007
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
I am going to start adding the southern region to MP.com. It will be a slow process but there are so many amazing routes there and MP.com is a great database that deserves to be updated. For complete route info for the RRG use the links to Ray Ellington's online guide. Dec 21, 2007
Kodye
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Kodye   South Lake Tahoe, CA
If you plan on camping at Miguels in the spring check the weather cause if it is gonna rain you might wake up swimming. definitely get the high ground!! May 9, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
Not sure I like the way regions and areas are organized here. The guidebook, redriverclimbing.com, rockclimbing.com (ie, every resource I've seen for the RRG except this one) is organized by the traditional method. Yes, it is confusing at times, but this method is confusing at ALL times if you don't have a topographic map. In my experience, most climbers are much more likely to have a guidebook than a topo map for cragging areas, so organizing by the traditional method that the guidebook uses would make way more sense. Jun 23, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
I agree with Jeff's concerns about the layout of the RRG here, so I've done some major reorganization. If you have comments, let me know. Nov 2, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
Thanks sax! Big improvement for sure.
I still think it should just follow the guidebook method (Gray's Branch, Upper, Middle and Lower Gorge, etc) but this works fine too. Nov 2, 2009
Any suggestions on where to camp in February when Miguel's is closed? Feb 4, 2010
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
I believe you can still camp at Miguel's during the winter, but there's no water, bathrooms, or trash disposal. Fortunately, the rest area is not far away and has all those things. Don't quote me on that though. Feb 9, 2010
Thanks for the reply Jeff.
Just to let others know, I just got back from winter camping at RRG and I ended up staying at the Koomer Ridge campground. It had washrooms, a well with running water, trash disposal, and was $7/night for the site. I recommend this to others camping in the off season. Feb 21, 2010
hello

was on the route " bleed like me" at the vol. wall, me and my girl friend both had trouble with it we dont know if we were on the right route. both rrg guides said it came in at 12b and was 65 ft, the route we were on the crux started at 65 ft or so it seemed??? if any body can shed some light on this first set of bolts just right of the huge cave. it was day 6 on so my pereption of the climb is probably skewed.

thanx Apr 4, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
There is a wealth of primitive camping in RRG. You can camp just about anywhere in forest service land for about $3 or 4 a night. The problem is that even that stuff is going to be packed on Memorial Day weekend.

You can drive up Chimney top road, auxier ridge, basically wherever, and you will find primitive spots in the pull-offs right by the road. There is a large site between Left Flank and Military; it will probably be taken. Same deal with stuff near Funk Rock. There are hike-in backcountry sites, but those are generally a pain in the ass if you're climbing and if you don't know what you're looking for.

I would shoot for either Miguels or Lago Linda's. I don't remember either of those places being more crowded than usual last year. Of course, they were still packed, but no more than usual... May 3, 2010
What's up with the flooding and road closures this week. Which crags are inaccessible? I've been trying to figure it out and the best I can see is rrgtoday.com/phpBB3/viewtop… May 5, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I just did my first trip to RRG this past week, what an amazing place. A couple things I would suggest are, a stick-clip, eating at Miguels as much as possible, drinking as much ale-8 as your can, and train for endurance. RRG is an amazing destination! Jun 11, 2010
Josh Cox
Andover, MN
Josh Cox   Andover, MN
In the Spring... how early does it get "good"? as in dry? I'm looking at the first full week of April. Of course, weather is unpredictable, but in general would this be a good time or should I try and push it back into May? Thanks. Dec 28, 2012
Michaela Peisger 1
Westchester, New York
Michaela Peisger 1   Westchester, New York
Climbed at Curbside yesterday. There is a big hornet nest in the sand below a big rock next to the climb wild fire. We got away with a couple of stings thanks to the help of a great couple from Las Vegas but could have gone totally wrong. The nest is hard to see because it is in the sand. Aug 30, 2014
Did I miss a page,or has nobody decided to reveal the new Miller Fork area here at MP site, to hopefully include basic info on routes, access, location, parking, etc. ? Seems fair to share the info online sometime. Mar 3, 2015
Hillbill
Indianapolis
Hillbill   Indianapolis
^^ You can find information about Miller Fork here: redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/ Mar 6, 2015
Does anyone have beta about getting a shuttle from the Louisville or Cinci airports?

Or can you rent a car at one of those airports and then drop it in town nearby the Red?

I'm going to be meeting a buddy but need one way transportation.
Aug 19, 2015
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
If you opt to camp out behind Miguels and are over the age of 28 you'll probably want to distance yourself from the restaurant as much as possible. theres a pretty heavy party scene that went on until about 4 am on a tuesday when I visited. None of the staff will do anything to silence people. I'd recommend staying at another campsite if youre the kind of person that just wants to get up and go climbing the next morning. But if you came to Kentucky to get trashed behind a pizza place in the middle of the woods and play uno super loudly for hours on end, this is the place for you. Oct 18, 2015
David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
Area/first time recommendations thread:

MP Thread 1 Dec 16, 2015
Anyone know any good areas to climb at when it is raining out? It can be trad or sport up to 5.12+. Dec 23, 2015
S. Neoh  
^^^
Start with this -
redriverclimbing.com/RRCGui… Dec 25, 2015
I will be traveling to the red in April and would like to purchase the guidebooks. I picked up the North guidebook, but cant find the South guidebook anywhere online. This is the version I am looking for:

rei.com/product/857443/red-…

Does anyone know of another guidebook I can use for the south area or where I can purchase the ellington book?

thanks

Brian Dec 9, 2016
BrianWS  
In response to Brian Lockard's question:

rakkup.com/guidebooks/red-r… Dec 10, 2016
Aaron Fensterheim
Rockville MD
Aaron Fensterheim   Rockville MD
Does anyone know if camping is still allowed at Miguels even in winter( December?) Dec 18, 2016
Cole T
Cincinnati, OH
Cole T   Cincinnati, OH
Yes you can still camp at miguels in the winter, best time to, just make sure you still pay online Dec 21, 2016
On Saturday, June 10th, the annual Rebolt The Red day will be taking place at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.
We will be replacing bolts at the following walls and visitors should be prepared for potential closures of classic routes in order to make them safer for everyone in the community.
· Drive By
· Bob Marley
· Military Wall
· The Solar Collector/Dark Side
· Beer Trailer
· Wall of Denial
If you wish to help out with the annual project:
· Donate to the FGI at: rrgfgi.com/
· Report Bad Bolts and donate to: badbolts.com/
· Follow FGI on Facebook: facebook.com/RRGFixedGearIn…
If you would like to join the event, please register at:
signupgenius.com/go/20f0449…
Or just show up at The Red River Rockhouse at 8am on Saturday, June 10th. We always need climbers to set up fixed ropes and move supplies. Jun 5, 2017
On October 6,7 and 8 the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition will be holding their annual fundraiser Rocktoberfest at The Land of the Arches camp ground. Please come out and join us for Water Balloon slinging, Gear deals by sponsors, food trucks, beer trucks, BD sponsored Climbing competitions and MORE!

Please visit here for more info.

Here to signup up

and

here to volunteer! Sep 6, 2017
Caleb Spradlin
Asheville, NC
Caleb Spradlin   Asheville, NC
For those looking for a great rest day cafe with faster wifi, the Art Factory Coffee Shop located in downtown Beattyville is a sweet spot with cheap coffee/food (Coffee for 1.75 and Grilled Cheese and soup for $5). Super friendly staff and a chill place to camp out for a bit! Nov 8, 2017
Hi all! How's climbing weather this coming week there? Would you say it's a fair weather for a week of climbing? Like from the 9th till the 15th? Mar 6, 2018
HAS ANYONE FOUND A GREEN ROPE UNDER TACIT AT BOB MARLEY? Left on 5/19/18. I'll buy yo ass a whole pizza, unlimited toppings if found. Please txt 6159743467 if you have this rope.

xoxo May 23, 2018
We are looking for climbing partners in the Red 6/13/18 - 6/17/18. We're probably looking at sport routes 11a and under, but if anyone wants to do some trad leading we would love to follow and gain some knowledge!
We'll bring snacks! May 31, 2018
Hey!
Does anyone know free camping spots for a truck with a slide-in-camper in the RRG?
Thanks! Jul 30, 2018

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