Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Kellyn Gorder 1997
Page Views: 7,164 total · 53/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Dec 22, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


324 Opinions

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Access Issue: RRGCC Owned Details

Description

Good holds lead to a crimpy crux about mid way up. After this you get a decent rest and power past a big sloper to the top. Really fun climbing on great holds!!

Location

From where the approach trail meets the crag head left. This climb starts in the corner immediately left of Breakfast Burrito.

Protection

10 bolts to chains

Photos

ziggy
 
ziggy  
 
One of the best of the grade in the RRG. Nice long route with great moves the whole way. Oct 21, 2009
Eckhard
Denver, CO
  5.10d PG13
Eckhard   Denver, CO
  5.10d PG13
Well a Local just told me this may be the hardest ten in the gorge and those crimps at the 5th bolt leave something to be desired when trying to clip with an ankle buster waiting for you when you blow. Over all amazing climb every move is a ten move but it ain't a gimmie for a 10 or 11 a/b climber. Oct 8, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d PG13
A great route, but I agree with Eckhard- watch the 5th clip, its sketchy and probably the crux with fairly high consequences.

Someone mentioned that those holds near that bolt used to be bigger, but had broken over time. If this route gets rebolted anytime soon, that bolt should be lowered about a foot to facilitate clipping. This might require a new bolt, or possibly adjustment of the next couple, but its only a matter of time until that climb claims someones ankles. Dec 28, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Found it slightly pumpy through the upper mid section, but some good rests allow the majority to go pretty smooth. Some awkward movements, but fun through and through. A second to Breakfast Burrito if you ask me. Dec 5, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
As of Oct 19, 2012, the anchors are not equalized; the left and higher quicklink takes all the load and is showing significant wear. Replacing this link with three new quicklinks in a chain should provide an equalized anchor. I have also reported this situation at redriverclimbing.com Oct 21, 2012
runout  
I blew it at the 5th bolt. Agree that it was a great route except for clipping that bolt. As it stands if the draw is pre-hung it's fine but if you have to place it, it's not really good because you move higher and higher searching for the better hold to clip until you realize there are none and you are already at waist level. My belayer flew up into the first bolt so I probably fell 2x the distance from 5th to 4th bolt + 12 feet + rope stretch. Not sure how long that was but it was looong.

Both belayer and I are fine though. I only hit air on the way down, but yeah I probably got lucky. Apr 14, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
Forget the clips debate. That sit down saddle position is worth it. Mar 22, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
 
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
 
This was the first route I did at the Red. Don't remember any clips being spicy and I wasn't much stronger than an 11a Red climber at the time.. Jul 27, 2015
Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Alex Zucca   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Nothing beats that saddle sit down rest near the top. May 9, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.10d
Franck Vee  
  5.10d
Agree with Jon - I think the clips are OK. You may pump out & fall (it is pumpy) but there isn't much to worry about with that fall imo. Oct 20, 2017