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Routes in North 40

Amarillo Sunset S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbed Wire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Samurai S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Summer Breeze T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yosemite Sam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kipp Trummel
Page Views: 27,107 total, 246/month
Shared By: Paul Corsaro on Oct 25, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


280 Opinions

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Description

Amazing line. One of the best 11's in the Red. Pull through unique moves on large holds on an exposed stiking wall.

Location

First route witnessed from the approach trail. Obvious line with a ledge after the first bolt.

Protection

8 bolts
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
Zachary Burton wrote:I have a question for everyone. What is the proper pronunciation of Amarillo sunset?
The double "L"s in Amarillo are pronounced like the letter "Y". You can hear it on translate.google.com. Sep 29, 2017
I have a question for everyone. What is the proper pronunciation of Amarillo sunset? Sep 28, 2017
Julian901
  5.11b/c
Julian901  
  5.11b/c
Gave this a third attempt this week. Everything about it seems classic to me, exposure, moves and overall appearance. It does seem stiff for the grade, keep in mind it was downgraded from 5.12 when the anchors were lowered. What really ups the exposure on this climb is the last bolt which is ~12-15 feet above the second last bolt. High feet and a long reach to a side pull/underclingand is needed to land the clipping stance here. If you're not a 5.11+ climber you'll be doing this as a dead-point. If you miss the move you'll be in for a long fall (clean though). I've watched the mental and physical stamina drain from many unsuspecting climbers as they realize the whipper they are about to take if they miss this final difficult move. I can't say I feel 100% mentally with it either going for the hold, haha. Apr 3, 2017
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
Awesome line. If this was labeled this 11c/d I don't anyone would blink an eye. way harder than a number of other 11c's in the Red. Oct 30, 2014
Cocanower
The High Country
 
Cocanower   The High Country
 
so sik! beautiful! I fell tho ughhh Nov 12, 2012
charris
 
charris  
 
This climb and area seem to hold a lot of moisture and were pretty wet when other nearby walls were dry. I would guess you need 3-5 days of dryness before climbing here. Sep 30, 2012
Tino F
  5.11b
Tino F  
  5.11b
stellar stellar line. there are few lines in the red that literally "own" their own wall. getchasome Apr 9, 2012
Been to this wall like 5 times trying to climb it and there is always some huge party(like in the video) sessioning it for hours. Tried in October with 100 cars in the parking lot and in December with 3 cars in the parking lot and someone is always on it. Get in line! Jan 1, 2012
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
 
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
 
Maybe the best route I have ever climbed. There is a slightly tough clip if you are fighting the pump right below the anchors. I took a big whipper from there, but its a clean fall. At that bolt, I suggest clipping from the undercling and not the smaller hold higher up. Oct 20, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Really tough if you are below 5'8", luckily I am not. Sep 27, 2011
I onsighted it barefoot, but it seemed hard for 11b. Great route though. Apr 24, 2011
Sam Stephens  
 
One of the best 11's in the East possibly. Oct 2, 2010