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Routes in North 40

Amarillo Sunset S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbed Wire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Samurai S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Summer Breeze T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yosemite Sam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel, 2006
Page Views: 2,930 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on May 31, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This route is atypical for the Red. Not a jug haul by any means. Start by traversing in from the left on a crimp rail to reach a jug at the base of a crack/flake. From the jug, find very thin feet and work your way up into the flake (crux). From the flake, aim for a large pocket, find a way to get up on a large jug and then figure out a way to reach the next jug up and left. From here, the climbing eases up as the holds are very positive and the climbing is straight forward. You may want to consider stick clipping the 2nd bolt as there may be potential for ground fall if you blow it clipping the 2nd bolt.

Location

From Amarillo Sunset, 5.11b, continue walking left along the cliff. Drop down into the gully and use a hand rope to climb back up to the other side. Samurai is at the top of the hand line on the right.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
Really attractive route. I was getting baffled/frustrated at the crux until I found the magic foot. Turns it into something like a V5 followed by funky 11- climbing to the chains May 1, 2016
kiff
  5.12b
kiff  
  5.12b
This route is incredible; thought provoking moves on exquisite stone. Sep 10, 2014