Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: First 80': G. Stephens, A. Snider '86. Extension to the top: T. Souders, '86.
Page Views: 35,425 total · 211/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006 with improvements by Billy Simek
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Description

Rock Wars is one of the finest routes in the Red and offers a little of everything but off-width. Start off on moderate climbing and stem, lock, and jam your way up for some moderate climbing to a tiny "roof" where the crack/flake stick out to the right and you are forced to move with it. High feet to the right and a positive finger lock/lieback (5.9) get you through the first crux. There were once anchors here where the inital FA was completed, but these have since been removed. A second set of anchors is now 40' above. Continue climbing into the left-leaning handcrack (5.10a) to only (formerly top) set of anchors at 10a.
Watch your rope length when you lower off, as the top anchor is up there for a 60M rope.

Location

Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).

Protection

Gear to 3." The (formerly 1st pitch) initial crux gear is first-to-second knuckle sized cams. If you run all the way up to the top in a single pitch, the second and true crux (formerly second pitch) is on hand-to-wide hands gear.
The flake is thin in spots and stoppers have been known to pop out with flex in the rock, but cams are pretty secure. Place them a little deep just to be safe.

Photos