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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: G. Stephens, A. Snider '86. P2: T. Souders, '86.
Page Views: 26,833 total, 197/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Rock Wars is one of the finest routes in the Red and offers a little of everything, except off-width. Start off on moderate climbing and stem,lock and jam your way up for some moderate climbing to a tiny "roof" where the crack/flake stick out to the right and you are forced to move with it. High feet to the right and a positive finger lock/lieback (5.9) get you through the first crux and up to the anchors. Stop at the anchor if you feel compelled, or better yet, clip one of the bolts with a sling and get up and into the left-leaning handcrack (5.10a) to the second set of anchors.

Location

Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).

Protection

Gear to 3." The 1st pitch crux gear is first-to-second knuckle sized cams. If you run all the way up to the top in a single pitch, the second pitch is crux on hand-to-wide hands gear.
The flake is thin in spots and stoppers have been known to pop out with flex in the rock, but cams are pretty secure. Place them a little deep just to be safe.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
No bolts remain on this. Do it as one pitch, the gear is perfect all the way to the top! Apr 17, 2017
Kyle Hartung  
 
Led for the first time over the weekend - the route was a lot of fun. To me it really seemed like a one-pitch route and climbed as such. The bolt IMO is more to just clip a draw to and keep going, or for re-directing a top rope for following climbers. Oct 25, 2016
Gear (c4 sizes): #3 at start above death block, #.2, #.3(2), #.4(2), #1 (for top slant layback after bolt), #.75 (for top before anchors). Apr 22, 2016
Big Ears  
 
Great route. But not "all time" I rated it 3 star, would do 3.5 if I had the option Apr 19, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
The original anchor bolts have been reduced to one and it still spins. Only way down is to keep going up. Nov 13, 2015
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
 
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
 
Beautiful. The lower portion eats up blue and yellow metolious sizes. Only used a .75 and 1 camelot for the the top. Don't miss this climb and if your confident at 5.9 go do hot september, an amazing compliment climb. Mar 22, 2015
J Meagher
  5.10a
J Meagher  
  5.10a
An incredible route, by far the best crack I've ever climbed. IMO, this rock is even better than the rock at the Solarium and Bruise Brothers. Straight in finger locks the whole way, and remember to bring your good smearing shoes!

Just a heads up about the anchor bolts, both hangars are loose and easily spin in a full circle. I don't think its cause to worry too much but just check them before lowering or TR ing off them Apr 28, 2014
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
I have to echo the commentators before me: this route is stellar, it is everything you have ever hoped for or dreamed of, it will raise your children for you and send them to Harvard too. It is also not nearly as hard as it looks (finger size dependent, of course). It would certainly be at home in Utah or Nevada, and is one of the best crack climbs I have done on the right coast.

RE: Conditions

There is, as of spring 2014, no intermediate belay - just one bolt with an empty hole where the second one used to be. This is no big deal, it is easy to get down with a sixty, the top protects well, and there is simply no reason not to do the entire route anyway. Apr 5, 2014
This would be two pitches if you didn't have enough gear possibly. I've never seen anyone do it in two. 60m rope is good enough. Nov 16, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
A warning about doing this on nuts- that flake expands on hard pulls. More than one person I know has zippered a series of stoppers out of it in a fall. Oct 29, 2010
sunder
Alsip, Il
 
sunder   Alsip, Il
 
The single bolt is more for if you are toproping the route. Make sure to clip the single bolt before lowering the other person. This will stop a swing into Souder's Crack if someone falls on TR on the lower half of the route.

Takes 2xC3 #1 on the lower half along with some nuts. The dihedral midway takes 2x.75 BD cams. Plus other gear. Aug 30, 2010
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.10a
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.10a
CLASSIC!!! Be ware of the bolt... it's loose (use a cam instead)

Pro: small cams #1 #2 BD C3's and BD C4's 0.4 to 2 for the top, with an optional #3 or #4 down low (you'll see the one spot)

Lot's of good feet make this easier than it looks, except at the top ;) Jul 11, 2010
jhump
  5.10a
jhump  
  5.10a
This route is a must do. One of the most memorable and excellent single pitches I have ever done- and that was 11 years ago. Jun 27, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Mostly solid first and second knuckle for me on P1, but I do have small fingers. Second pitch I was in up to my wrists, and comfortably so. Jan 14, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
locks and jams? i couldn't get a single fingerjam on the whole thing...i was tips laybacking up the entire finger crack. Jan 14, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
This is one of the best (if not THE best) crack climbs I've done in the southeast. Classic locks and jams. Mar 17, 2008
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
forget that bolt...put in a cam and keep going!!!! Nov 19, 2007
max seigal
boulder
 
max seigal   boulder
 
this is a great line, and not as hard as it looks. The gear is solid, and both pitches should be linked (with a 60meter rope you can make it down). Jul 28, 2007