Avg: 3.9 from 282 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||First 80': G. Stephens, A. Snider '86. Extension to the top: T. Souders, '86.|
|Page Views:||27,354 total · 197/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 3, 2006|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionRock Wars is one of the finest routes in the Red and offers a little of everything but off-width. Start off on moderate climbing and stem, lock, and jam your way up for some moderate climbing to a tiny "roof" where the crack/flake stick out to the right and you are forced to move with it. High feet to the right and a positive finger lock/lieback (5.9) get you through the first crux. There were once anchors here where the inital FA was completed, but these have since been removed. A second set of anchors is now 40' above. Continue climbing into the left-leaning handcrack (5.10a) to only (formerly top) set of anchors at 10a.
Watch your rope length when you lower off, as the top anchor is up there for a 60M rope.
LocationWalk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).
ProtectionGear to 3." The (formerly 1st pitch) initial crux gear is first-to-second knuckle sized cams. If you run all the way up to the top in a single pitch, the second and true crux (formerly second pitch) is on hand-to-wide hands gear.
The flake is thin in spots and stoppers have been known to pop out with flex in the rock, but cams are pretty secure. Place them a little deep just to be safe.